One of the keys to frying meat is having the oil at the right temperature (about 375°F) so it “sings” when you add the meat. At a lower temperature, meat will cook slowly and stew rather than fry, absorbing the oil and becoming greasy and heavy. Meat, fish, and vegetables begin to brown at around 230°F. The transformation that develops the characteristic brown color of foods cooked on the grill, in the oven, or in oil is called the “Maillard reaction.”

　　

Ingredients

serves 4 to 6

　　4 to 6 (8- to 10-ounce) bone-in, center-cut pork chops, cut 3/4 inch thick

　　Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　1 cup all-purpose flour

　　1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste

　　1/2 cup canola oil

　　2 cups chicken stock (page 227) or low-fat, reduced-sodium chicken broth, or 1 cup milk plus 1 cup chicken stock or broth

　　

Step 1

Season the pork chops generously with salt and pepper. Set aside. Place the flour in a shallow plate and mix with cayenne, salt, and pepper. Set aside.

　　

Step 2

In a large skillet, preferably cast iron, heat the oil over medium-high heat until the temperature reaches 375°F on a deep-fat thermometer.

　　

Step 3

Meanwhile, to cook the pork chops, add the chops, one piece at a time, to the seasoned flour and turn to coat both sides. Shake to remove excess flour.

　　

Step 4

Add the pork chops to the hot oil without crowding. Fry until golden brown on one side and the juices are starting to pool on the surface of the meat, about 4 minutes. Using tongs, turn the chops. Cover the skillet, decrease the heat to low, and cook until the center of each chop registers 140°F on an instant-read thermometer, an additional 3 to 4 minutes. Using tongs, remove the chops to a warm platter and tent loosely with aluminum foil to keep warm.

　　

Step 5

Pour off most of the grease, leaving 2 tablespoons in the pan along with any browned bits. Add 2 tablespoons of the remaining seasoned flour. Using a wooden spoon, cook the roux over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until nutty brown, about 3 minutes. Whisk in the chicken stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to medium-low, and simmer, whisking occasionally, until thickened, 3 to 5 minutes. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.

　　

variation

Step 6

To give the chops a little crunch, I sometimes add a few tablespoons of fine cornmeal to the seasoned flour. You can also season the mixture with paprika in addition to the cayenne.

　　From Bon Appétit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories From Three Generations of Southern Cooking, © 2008 by Virginia Willis. Reprinted by permission of Ten Speed Press. Buy the full book from Amazon or Abe Books.