San Marzano tomatoes are grown in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius, southeast of Naples. The highly fertile volcanic soil of the San Marzano Valley, coupled with lots of sunshine and a benevolent Mediterranean climate, adds up to tomato heaven. The San Marzano tomato is a long, thin, plum-shaped variety known for its low acidity and earthy, intense tomato flavor. Except during summer, when fresh tomatoes are at their best, a good canned variety is a better choice. Canned San Marzano tomatoes are one of the few canned products that chefs otherwise fixated on local, fresh produce will use.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4 to 6

　　1/4 cup canola oil

　　1 pound small to medium okra, whole if small, or cut into 1/2-inch pieces, stems trimmed

　　1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped

　　2 cloves garlic, very finely chopped

　　1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

　　2 teaspoons ground cumin

　　2 teaspoons ground coriander

　　1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

　　1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric

　　1 (28-ounce) can tomatoes (preferably San Marzano), chopped, with juices

　　Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish

　　

Step 1

Line a plate with paper towels. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the okra and cook until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to the prepared plate. Set aside.

　　

Step 2

Add the onion to the residual oil in the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Add the cumin, coriander, cayenne, and turmeric and stir to combine. Add the tomatoes with juices, and stir to combine.

　　

Step 3

Cook until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Add the reserved okra and stir to combine. Decrease the heat to medium-low and cook until the okra is tender, about 10 minutes. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Garnish with cilantro and serve immediately.

　　From Bon Appétit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories From Three Generations of Southern Cooking, © 2008 by Virginia Willis. Reprinted by permission of Ten Speed Press. Buy the full book from Amazon or Abe Books.