I’m a freak for sweet-and-sour flavors and an admitted chile-head. That’s why I like Southeast Asian food so much, but the same combination of flavors characterizes food from other places, such as this rustic Italian-inspired chutney. I first made it when I was looking for single-serving appetizers: something small to calm my raging appetite (what I like to call “hanger”) while I’m cooking. This flavor-packed condiment does the trick, particularly when served on top of good ricotta on toast. But it can also be one of those condiments that you keep around as the basis for main courses. Toss it in hot pasta, slather it on Three-Pepper Pizza with Goat Cheese (page 118), or use it to top Low, Slow, and Custardy Eggs (page 30) or Shrimp and Potato Chip Tortilla (page 35). I got the idea from the fabulous A16: Food + Wine, by Nate Appleman and Shelley Lindgren, but kicked it up by adding a poblano pepper, plus more red pepper flakes and garlic, and balanced it out with a little sugar.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 2 cups

　　2 large or 3 medium red bell peppers (about 1 pound total)

　　1 poblano pepper

　　2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　1 tablespoon capers, drained

　　2 teaspoons tomato paste

　　3 large shallot lobes, cut into 1/4-inch dice (about 1/2 cup)

　　1 clove garlic, chopped

　　1/4 fennel bulb, cored and cut into 1/4-inch dice (about 1/4 cup)

　　1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

　　Kosher or sea salt

　　1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, plus more as needed

　　1 teaspoon sugar, plus more as needed

　　

Step 1

Preheat the broiler with the rack set 4 to 5 inches from the element or flame. Line a large baking sheet with aluminum foil.

　　

Step 2

Split the bell peppers and poblano pepper through the stems and lay them cut sides down on the prepared baking sheet. Broil for a few minutes, then turn the sheet front to back and broil for a few more minutes, until the peppers are completely charred. Remove from the broiler, and let them cool on the baking sheet. When the peppers are cool enough to handle, slip off and discard the peels, stems, cores, and seeds. (Resist the temptation to do any of this under running water, or the flavor will be lost.) Tear or cut the peppers into roughly equal strips about 1/2 inch wide.

　　

Step 3

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Use paper towels to pat dry the capers. Add them to the hot oil and fry until they bloom and start to become crisp, 2 to 4 minutes. Add the tomato paste (be careful of splatters) and cook, stirring, until it darkens in color, about 2 minutes. Add the shallots, garlic, fennel, red pepper flakes, and salt to taste. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes.

　　

Step 4

Add the vinegar and use a spatula to dislodge any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet, then stir in the sugar. Add the peppers and cook for a few minutes, stirring. Taste for seasoning, adding salt, vinegar, or sugar as needed.

　　

Step 5

Serve the chutney warm or at room temperature. Or let it cool, then refrigerate in a tightly covered container for up to 2 weeks.

　　Reprinted with permission from Serve Yourself: Nightly Adventures in Cooking for One by Joe Yonan. Text copyright © 2011 by Joe Yonan; photographs copyright © 2011 by Ed Anderson. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc.Joe Yonan is the food and travel editor at the Washington Post, where he writes the award-winning "Cooking for One" column. Joe's work also earned the Post the 2009 and 2010 James Beard Foundation's award for best food section. He is the former travel editor at the Boston Globe. Visit www.joeyonan.com.