Fred used to offer this dish to girls at the restaurant L’Express because it was cheap and quirky. But in the end, that’s how he came across: cheap and quirky! Although it is no longer offered at L’Express, we sometimes make it at Joe Beef both for old time’s sake and because it’s just very good. You should count on two days to make this recipe, the first for filtering and chilling the consommé and the second for assembling the aspics. The classic version includes cooked ham, tarragon leaves, and egg whites cut and assembled in the shape of lilies. Now we do it with Spam, lobster, fava beans, crab, or anything we suspect will be delicious in a set consommé. You can purchase oeufs en gelée molds online, or you can use standard muffin tins made of silicone.

　　

Ingredients

Serves 6

　　

CONSOMMÉ

1/2 cup (70 g) diced celery (about 1/4-inch/6-mm chunks)

　　1/2 cup (70 g) diced, peeled carrot (about 1/4-inch/6-mm chunks)

　　1/2 cup (60 g) diced onion (about 1/4-inch/6-mm chunks)

　　1 pound (455 g) lean ground beef

　　1 pound (455 g) ground turkey

　　1 bay leaf

　　2 tablespoons chopped parsley

　　1 tablespoon peppercorns

　　1 clove garlic

　　3 quarts (3 liters) ice water

　　6 sheets gelatin

　　1 teaspoon sherry vinegar

　　1/4 cup (60 ml) Madeira

　　Salt

　　

EGGS

8 cups (2 liters) water

　　1 tablespoon salt, plus more for serving

　　6 to 8 medium eggs (or the smallest you can find), at room temperature

　　Any of the following: sliced premium cooked ham; sliced fresh, flash-frozen, or jarred black truffle; shelled and peeled fresh fava beans; crabmeat chunks; lobster tail silvers; sliced Spam; sliced smoked salmon; fresh tarragon leaves; jambon persillé (chopped ham and parsley tightly packed in a mustard-meat jelly); gold leaf (if you’re feeling sprightly)

　　Toasted country bread for serving

　　Ground black pepper and flake salt for serving

　　

Step 1

To make the consommé, in a heavy stockpot, whisk together the celery, carrot, onion, beef, turkey, bay leaf, parsley, peppercorns, garlic, and ice water. Place over low heat and stir until the consommé begins to simmer. Stop stirring; the meats and vegetables will rise to the top, forming a “raft.” Now, leave it alone (do not stir) and allow it to simmer gently for 2 hours. Do not let it come to a boil.

　　

Step 2

To strain the consommé, line a sieve with muslin cloth or several layers of cheesecloth and place it over a large bowl. Carefully create a hole in the top of the consommé. Plunge a ladle through the hole, being careful not to sink the raft, and ladle the liquid through the sieve. The consommé shouldn’t look cloudy; rather, it should be a pristine “meat tea” of sorts. Cover the bowl and refrigerate long enough for the fat to separate and congeal on top: overnight is a good option.

　　

Step 3

The next day, bloom the gelatin sheets in a bowl of cool water to cover for 5 to 10 minutes, or until they soften and swell. Meanwhile, remove the consommé from the refrigerator and lift off and discard the fat. Transfer 2 cups (500 ml) of the consommé to a small pot and place over high heat. (Freeze the rest of the consommé for soup. It will keep for up to 3 months.) When the consommé starts to boil, add the vinegar and Madeira and season with salt. Gently squeeze the gelatin sheets, add to the consommé, and stir for 2 or 3 minutes, or until fully dissolved. Remove from the heat and keep the consommé at room temperature.

　　

Step 4

Place six (3 1/2-ounce/100-g) molds on a small, flat tray. Pour the consommé to a depth of 1/4 inch (6 mm) into each mold. Place in the fridge to set (about 20 minutes). This layer is really important as it prevents the egg from poking through.

　　

Step 5

To prepare the eggs, in a large pot, bring the water and salt to a boil over medium-high heat. Carefully add the eggs and boil for exactly 4 1/2 minutes. Use a timer here, as the consistency of the eggs matters! Transfer the eggs to a bowl of ice water to cover and chill for about 10 minutes. Peel each egg carefully underwater; they are soft boiled and could easily break, which is why we suggest that you make two extra eggs, just in case.

　　

Step 6

Now for the fun part, creating your gelée (aspic). You can get creative here, one rule withstanding: everything you mix with your egg has to have a somewhat soft texture. For instance, adding raw carrots or celery would give you more of a 1960s jellied salad and would ruin the whole aesthetic. Also, keep in mind the bottom of the mold is actually the top of the gelée. That is, it is what everyone will see. If you want, you can artistically arrange a black truffle slice or tiny pieces of ham, peas, or slivers of lobster in the bottom of each mold (on the set layer of jelly) before you add the egg. Carefully place an egg in each mold. Once the egg is in, surround it with your choice of ingredients. Your consommé will come in handy for holding and suspending the pieces in place, so wield its power. When you have all of your ingredients in, make the sure the mold is filled evenly, using the consommé to top it off. Carefully transfer the molds back to the fridge for at least 2 hours to set before serving. (They will keep for up to 2 days maximum.)

　　

Step 7

To unmold the aspics, pour hot water to a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm) into a wide, shallow pan. Carefully place the bottom of each mold into the water and let it sit for 30 seconds. Invert the mold onto the serving plate; the aspic should slip right out. If it doesn’t, release the vacuum between the aspic and the mold by inserting the tip of a blade and twisting lightly. Classic decorum dictates that you serve the aspics with toast, black pepper, and salt for the yolk.

　　Reprinted with permission from The Art of Living According to Joe Beef by Frédéric Morin, David McMillan & Meredith Erickson, copyright © 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.