I came up with this pizza idea when sampling the beautifully made charcuterie of Nathan Anda, who sells at farmers’ markets in the Washington, D.C., area. When he pulled out a package of fatty German-style speck and suggested that it would melt on top of pizza, I had to try it with a bagful of mushrooms I bought from a nearby vendor. He was right: The fat from the speck basted the mushrooms in richness. If you can’t find German-style speck, substitute Italian lardo raw, thinly sliced bacon.

　　

Ingredients

4 to 5 ounces mixed mushrooms, such as hen of the woods, oyster, and cremini, cut into halves or quarters if large

　　1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

　　Kosher or sea salt

　　Freshly ground black pepper

　　All-purpose flour

　　1 (6-ounce) ball No-Knead Pizza Dough (page 104) or No-Knead Pizza Dough with Spelt (page 105)

　　2 tablespoons marinara sauce or crushed canned tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)

　　1 ounce Pecorino Romano cheese, freshly grated

　　1 ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, freshly grated

　　2 paper-thin slices Italian speck

　　

Step 1

If the dough has been refrigerated, transfer it to the countertop to let it rise for about 1 hour before making pizza.

　　

Step 2

Preheat the oven to 500°F.

　　

Step 3

In a large cast-iron skillet or on a flat griddle, toss the mushrooms with the oil, salt, and pepper. Transfer to the oven and roast for 10 to 15 minutes, until the mushrooms have collapsed and are nicely browned. Transfer the mushrooms to a plate.

　　

Step 4

Preheat the broiler with the rack set 5 inches from the element or flame. If you are using a cast-iron skillet or griddle pan for the pizza, set it over medium-high heat until it gets smoking hot, about 15 minutes. Transfer the skillet (turned upside down) or griddle pan to the broiler. If you are using a baking stone, heat it in a 500°F oven for an hour, then carefully transfer it to the broiler.

　　

Step 5

To shape the dough, dust a work surface liberally with flour and put the ball of dough on it. Sprinkle with flour and knead a few times until the dough comes together and holds its shape when you form it into a ball. Add more flour if necessary. Form it into an 8-inch round by pressing from the center out toward the edges, leaving a 1-inch border thicker than the rest.

　　

Step 6

Make sure the topping ingredients are measured and ready before you assemble the pizza.

　　

Step 7

Open the oven or broiler door, and quickly slide out the rack with the cooking surface (skillet, griddle pan, or baking stone) on it. Pick up the dough and quickly transfer it to the cooking surface, pressing it back into shape if need be, while being careful not to touch the cooking surface with your fingers.

　　

Step 8

Spread a thin layer of the marinara sauce (to taste) on the pizza dough, leaving a 1-inch margin around the edges. Scatter the mushrooms (to taste) over the sauce, then sprinkle on the cheeses. Lay the slices of speck on top.

　　

Step 9

Broil the pizza for 3 to 5 minutes, until the crust has puffed up around the edges and blackened in spots.

　　

Step 10

Remove the pizza with a wooden or metal pizza peel or a thin square of cardboard, transfer it to a cutting board, and let it rest for a few minutes. Cut the pizza into quarters, transfer to a plate, and eat.

　　Reprinted with permission from Serve Yourself: Nightly Adventures in Cooking for One by Joe Yonan. Text copyright © 2011 by Joe Yonan; photographs copyright © 2011 by Ed Anderson. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc.Joe Yonan is the food and travel editor at the Washington Post, where he writes the award-winning "Cooking for One" column. Joe's work also earned the Post the 2009 and 2010 James Beard Foundation's award for best food section. He is the former travel editor at the Boston Globe. Visit www.joeyonan.com.