The true taste of a place is found in its little oddities, and northern India is no exception. Nowhere are the distinctive attitudes and sensibilities of a people better captured than in the lemonade of northern India. Jal jeera is Hindi for “cumin water,” but it’s the wild and unruly yet ultimately constructive influence of India’s famous, sulfuric kala namak salt that lends this drink its edge. It’s traditionally drunk before a meal, but any hot day provides a great excuse to duck into the shade, mix up a tall iced glass of jal jeera, and tilt your face up to the sun to offer a prayer to the sun god Surya.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　2 tablespoons whole cumin seeds

　　4 teaspoons fresh cilantro leaves

　　2 teaspoons sugar

　　3/4 cup fresh mint leaves

　　2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

　　1/2 teaspoon kala namak salt

　　4 cups cold water

　　1/2 lemon, cut into 4 wedges, for garnish

　　4 mint sprigs, for garnish

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil.

　　

Step 2

Pound the cumin in a mortar and pestle until cracked, then spread on the prepared baking sheet. Roast for 3 to 5 minutes, until fragrant and lightly toasted, being careful not to burn.

　　

Step 3

Add the cilantro, sugar, and mint to the mortar and crush with the pestle into a paste. Combine the paste with the toasted cumin, lemon juice, and kala namak in a large jar (at least 1 1/2 quarts) and mix thoroughly. Add the water and some ice; seal the jar and shake vigorously. Pour ice and all into 4 tall glasses, garnish with lemon wedges and mint sprigs, and serve.

　　Salted