At first glance, Anne Willan, the proper, Cambridge-educated grande dame of cuisine, would seem to have little in common with a Mafia don. Looks can be deceiving: those “in the know” are well aware of the “La Varenne Way.” The La Varenne Way of recipe testing has evolved with Anne’s experience of more than thirty-five years as a teacher, cookbook author, and food writer. As the director of École de Cuisine La Varenne, the cooking school that she founded in Burgundy in 1975, with the encouragement and support of the grand doyenne herself, Julia Child, Willan has shaped and influenced countless professional and amateur cooks all over the world, myself included. La Varenne alumni are called, tongue-in-cheek, the “La Varenne Mafia.” No secret society, the list of capos reads like a Who’s Who of the culinary world. The invaluable training I acquired in France working with Anne opened countless doors and a world of possibilities. Anne is one of the hardest-working individuals I know, and her drive for perfection has long been an inspiration. This rich gratin, typical of simple country French cooking, was inspired by a version I learned while at La Varenne.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6 to 8

　　4 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into lardons (see page 179)

　　1 1/2 to 2 pounds russet potatoes

　　1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

　　1 clove garlic, finely chopped

　　Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　1 1/2 cups whole milk, plus more if needed

　　1 cup heavy cream, plus more if needed

　　Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

　　1/2 cup grated Gruyère cheese (about 2 ounces)

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a plate with paper towels. Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking sheet, parchment paper, or aluminum foil to protect the baking sheet from spills and make for easy cleanup.

　　

Step 2

Heat a skillet over medium heat and cook the bacon until brown and crispy, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the bacon to the prepared plate, reserving the rendered fat. Brush an ovenproof gratin dish with some of the rendered bacon fat. Save the remaining fat for another use or discard.

　　

Step 3

Peel the potatoes and, preferably using a mandoline, slice them 1/8 inch thick. Or, using a chef’s knife, carefully slice the potatoes thinly and evenly.

　　

Step 4

Arrange the potatoes in the dish in overlapping layers, seasoning with the reserved bacon, thyme, garlic, and salt and pepper as you go. Place the gratin on the prepared baking sheet. Combine the milk, heavy cream, and nutmeg in a medium heavy-bottomed pot. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Pour over the gratin. Sprinkle the cheese over the top.

　　

Step 5

Bake until the potatoes are tender and deep golden brown, and the edges are bubbling, about 1 hour. (If the gratin starts to brown too deeply, cover with aluminum foil.) Let cool slightly, about 10 minutes, before serving.

　　From Bon Appétit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories From Three Generations of Southern Cooking, © 2008 by Virginia Willis. Reprinted by permission of Ten Speed Press. Buy the full book from Amazon or Abe Books.