I grew up in a household where we didn't eat meat on Friday, which presented a problem because when I was a child, I didn't like most fish or shellfish. My mother solved this dilemma by making me pasta with canned tuna and tomato sauce. This is my adult version of that recipe, made with high-quality preserved tuna with capers and anchovies added to hit the notes one expects in such a classic seafood pasta.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 4 servings

　　Coarse salt

　　1 pound dried fettuccine

　　1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

　　2 teaspoons minced garlic

　　6 anchovy fillets, rinsed, dried, and minced

　　1 1/2 cups canned tomato puree

　　1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and chopped

　　1/4 cup Gaeta olives, pitted and chopped

　　14 ounces excellent-quality tuna preserved in olive oil

　　Freshly ground black pepper

　　2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

　　

Step 1

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook just until al dente, about 7 minutes.

　　

Step 2

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a wide, deep sauté pan set over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until golden-brown, about 2 minutes. Add the anchovies and cook for 2 minutes more. Stir in the tomato puree and capers.

　　

Step 3

Reserve 1/4 cup of the cooking liquid, then strain the pasta. Stir the olives and tuna into the sauce, then gradually stir in the reserved pasta water until the sauce attains a pleasing consistency. Add the hot pasta and toss. Season with pepper and toss again.

　　

Step 4

To serve, divide the hot pasta among individual warmed bowls, topping each serving with some chopped parsley.

　　

Flavor Building

Step 5

Add 1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary to the sauce along with the black pepper.

　　Simple PleasuresMorrow