In the early twentieth century, a Jewish woman named Geneviève Halévy Bizet, the mother of Marcel Proust’s friend Jacques, held one of the most popular women’s salons in Paris, depicted in Proust’s work. Gertrude Stein, the Jewish writer, along with her partner, Alice B. Toklas, hosted another famous salon, conversing with and cooking for writers and artists during the many years when they lived together in France. One of the recipes Alice liked to serve to their guests was very similar to this prune-and-fig compote. In Alsace and southern Germany, prune compote is eaten at Passover with crispy sweet chremslach, doughnutlike fritters made from matzo meal (there is a recipe for them in my book Jewish Cooking in America).

　　

Ingredients

6 servings

　　1/2 pound prunes

　　1/2 pound dried figs

　　2 1/2 cups dry red wine, or more if necessary

　　3 cinnamon sticks

　　Grated zest and juice of 1 orange

　　Grated zest of 1/2 lemon

　　3 peppercorns

　　3 cloves

　　3 tablespoons sugar, or to taste

　　Whipped cream for serving (optional)

　　

Step 1

Put the prunes and figs, wine, cinnamon sticks, orange zest and juice, lemon zest, peppercorns, and cloves in a wide saucepan. If necessary, add more wine so that the fruit is just covered. Bring to a boil, and simmer, covered, for about an hour. Stir in the sugar, adding more to taste if you like.

　　

Step 2

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fruit to a bowl. Strain the liquid, and pour it over the fruit. Cover with plastic wrap, and let sit in the refrigerator overnight. Serve at room temperature, with or without the whipped cream.

　　Quiches, Kugels, and Couscous