Crème fraîche or strained yogurt offers many of the qualities of mayonnaise but with a cleaner, more piquant character. Beating in a small amount of olive or walnut oil will nudge it toward the perfect coating consistency of a classic mayonnaise-type rémoulade dressing. Using these tart alternatives lends a lightness, too.

　　

Ingredients

enough for 4 as a side dish

　　the juice of half a lemon

　　celery root – about 1 pound (500g)

　　a raw medium beet

　　crème fraîche – 4 heaping tablespoons

　　whole-grain mustard – 2 teaspoons

　　a little olive or walnut oil

　　parsley – a small handful of leaves

　　walnut halves – a scattering

　　

Step 1

Squeeze the lemon into a bowl. Peel the celery root, then grate it coarsely. A food processor with the coarse grater attachment is easier than trying to do it by hand. Put into a bowl and toss gently with the lemon juice to keep it from discoloring. Grate the beet and add it to the celery root, but don’t mix it up just yet.

　　

Step 2

Put the crème fraîche in a small bowl, and stir in the mustard and a little salt and black pepper. Gently mix in enough oil to make a coating consistency—probably about 2 or 3 tablespoons. Coarsely chop the parsley leaves and add to the dressing. Mix gently with a small whisk or fork, then fold into the shredded vegetables, mixing only lightly, so that the beet doesn’t send everything pink. Toast the walnuts lightly in a small, nonstick frying pan, then scatter them over the salad.

　　Tender