I often find myself reflecting back on principal recipes and techniques when I’m changing the menu at Jean Georges, then reworking them with modern flavor combinations. The fresh jam in this recipe makes a traditional tart more seasonal. Thai basil has a distinct flavor, so in addition to striking a modern note, it holds up well against the more homey notes struck by the cherries.

　　

Ingredients

serves 8 to 9

　　

For the Dough

1/2 pound plus 1 tablespoon (241g) unsalted butter, softened

　　1 cup plus 3 tablespoons (125g) confectioners’ sugar

　　1/2 teaspoon (2g) coarse salt

　　3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (78g) hazelnut flour

　　2 3/4 cups (343g) all-purpose flour

　　5 tablespoons (31g) unsweetened cocoa powder (preferably Valrhona)

　　1 1/4 teaspoons (2g) ground cinnamon

　　1 teaspoon (2g) ground cloves Grated zest of half an orange

　　Grated zest of half a lemon

　　1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped

　　1 large egg, lightly beaten

　　1 large egg yolk

　　

For the Ganache

3.5 ounces (100g) bittersweet chocolate (preferably Valrhona Le Noir Amer 71% cacao), chopped

　　3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (210g) heavy cream

　　

To Serve

Cherry Jam (page 251)

　　Chocolate Crumble (page 213)

　　Thai Basil Ice Cream (page 226)

　　

For the Dough

Step 1

Put the butter, confectioners’ sugar, and salt in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle. Beat just until combined.

　　

Step 2

Whisk the hazelnut flour, all-purpose flour, cocoa powder, cinnamon, cloves, orange and lemon zests, and vanilla seeds (rinse, dry, and save the pod for another use) together. Add to the butter and beat just until combined. Add the egg and yolk and beat until you have a smooth dough. Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and divide in half. Shape each half into a brick and wrap in plastic. Chill for at least 30 minutes.

　　

Step 3

Roll one-half of the dough 1/8 inch thick on a lightly floured work surface (freeze the rest for another use). Transfer the dough to a baking sheet and chill for 30 minutes. Cut into 3 1/2-inch circles and line eight to nine 2 1/4-inch tart rings. Place the tarts on a baking sheet and chill for 30 minutes.

　　

Step 4

Heat the oven to 375°F or 350°F on convection.

　　

Step 5

Trim the excess dough from the tart shells. Line the shells with pieces of parchment and fill with dried beans or rice. Bake the tart shells until crisp, 5 to 6 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through baking. Let cool in the molds.

　　

For the Ganache

Step 6

Put the chocolate in a small glass bowl. Microwave for 30 seconds.

　　

Step 7

Bring the cream to a boil in a small saucepan. Pour about one-third of the hot cream into the center of the chocolate and whisk, starting from the center and working out until combined. Add another third of the cream and whisk, again from the center out. Add the remaining cream and whisk until perfectly smooth. It will have the consistency of lightly whipped cream. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing it onto the surface of the ganache so a skin doesn’t form, and keep at room temperature until needed.

　　

To Serve

Step 8

Unmold the tart shells. Spread some ganache in the bottom of e each shell and fill with the jam.

　　

Step 9

Spoon some ganache on the plate and set a tart on top. Add a spoonful of chocolate crumble to the plate and top with a scoop or quenelle of ice cream.

　　

make it simpler

Step 10

You could use frozen cherries when making the jam, since they’re pitted. And in a pinch, you could use a traditional store-bought jam.

　　Reprinted with permission from Dessert Fourplay: Sweet Quartets from a Four-Star Pastry Chef by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Copyright © 2008 by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Published by Crown Publishing. All Rights Reserved.Johnny Iuzzini,, executive pastry chef of the world-renowned Jean Georges restaurant in New York City, won the award for Outstanding Pastry Chef from the James Beard Foundation in 2006. This is his first book.Roy Finamore, a publishing veteran of more than thirty years, has worked with many bestselling cookbook authors. He is the author of three books: One Potato, Two Potato; Tasty, which won a James Beard Foundation award; and Fish Without a Doubt.__