This is a more complicated use of miso, useful not only for fish but for meat (just substitute tenderloin for the tuna). I learned it from Japanese-born chef Tadashi Ono, who now lives in New York. His dual lives encouraged Ono to take a few liberties of the type that few would take in Japan, with a classic sauce like this one; but if this is fusion cooking, it’s the good kind. The Japanese chili paste called tohbanjan is strictly traditional here, but you can use Vietnamese or Korean chili paste or simply cayenne. I love this with Basmati Rice with Shiso (page 510).

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　1 teaspoon butter

　　1 teaspoon minced shallot

　　1/2 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

　　1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

　　1/8 teaspoon Japanese or other chili paste (see headnote)

　　1/2 cup red wine

　　1 tablespoon mirin or honey

　　2 tablespoons dark miso

　　1 tablespoon corn, grapeseed, or other neutral oil

　　Four 1-inch-thick tuna steaks, each 6 to 8 ounces

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　

Step 1

Preheat the broiler; the rack should be fairly close to the heat source. Put the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot, ginger, garlic, and chili paste and stir. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the red wine and mirin and continue cooking until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Add the miso and incorporate well, then set aside.

　　

Step 2

Place an ovenproof skillet large enough to hold all 4 steaks and preferably nonstick over medium high heat. When warm, add the oil. Season the tuna on both sides with salt and pepper, then add it to the hot oil. Cook for about 3 minutes per side for medium-rare, then remove the pan from the heat. Brush some of the miso glaze on the top side of each steak.

　　

Step 3

Place the tuna under the broiler to caramelize; it should take no more than 1 minute. Remove and serve.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.