The simple soup I make most often starts with a base of softened onions to which one or two vegetables are added. The soup is moistened with broth or water and simmered until the vegetables are tender. First, onions are gently cooked in butter or oil until soft and flavorful. A heavy-bottomed pot makes all the difference for this: it disperses the heat evenly, making it easier to cook vegetables slowly without browning. The amount of fat is important, too. You want enough butter or oil to really coat the onions. After 15 minutes or so of slow cooking, the onions will be transformed into a very soft, translucent, sweet base for the soup. Next, add a vegetable, such as carrots, sliced uniformly for even cooking. (Otherwise you will have underdone and overdone vegetables in your soup.) Salt generously (enough for the vegetables to taste good on their own) and continue cooking for a few minutes. This preliminary seasoning and cooking infuses the fat with the perfume and flavor of the vegetables. (The fat disperses the flavor throughout the soup.) This is an important technique, not just for soup but for cooking in general: building and developing flavor at each step before moving on. Now add broth or water, bring to a boil, and reduce to a simmer. Cook until the vegetables are tender but not falling apart. The soup will not taste finished until the vegetables have cooked through and given their flavor to the broth. Keep tasting. It is wonderful to discover how the flavors change and develop as the soup cooks. Does it need more salt? If you’re unsure, season a small spoonful and see if it tastes better with more. This is the only way you can find out. Many, many vegetables will make great soup when you follow this formula. The only variable is the length of time they take to cook. The best way to keep track is to keep tasting as you go. Some favorite vegetable soups that jump to mind are: turnip and turnip greens, corn, potato and leek, butternut squash, and onion. A vegetable soup made this way, with a flavorful stock rather than water, and served as a rustic “brothy” soup, will be delicious. (In fact, if the broth is rich enough, I sometimes skip any precooking in butter and add both onions and vegetables directly to the simmering broth.) If the soup is made with water instead of broth, and puréed to a uniform texture, the result will be a more delicate soup dominated by the pure flavor of the vegetables themselves. This is especially desirable for soups made from such sweet, tender vegetables as fava beans, peas, or corn. I purée such soups through a food mill, but you can also use a blender, which generates finer purées. Do be careful when using a blender to purée hot soup: always make sure the lid has an open vent hole to let the steam escape so that the whole lot doesn’t explode. Various garnishes and enrichments can be added when you serve the soup. Many cooks finish a puréed soup by spooning in a dollop of cream or stirring in a lump of butter, and a last-minute addition of herbs and spices or a squeeze of lemon can be enlivening. But use discretion; a garnish can overcomplicate or overpower the flavor of the soup itself.

　　

Ingredients

8 servings

　　4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter

　　2 onions, sliced

　　1 thyme sprig

　　2 1/2 pounds carrots, peeled and sliced (about 6 cups)

　　Salt

　　6 cups broth

　　

Step 1

Melt in a heavy-bottomed pot: 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter.

　　

Step 2

Add: 2 onions, sliced, 1 thyme sprig.

　　

Step 3

Cook over medium-low heat until tender, about 10 minutes. Add: 2 1/2 pounds carrots, peeled and sliced (about 6 cups).

　　

Step 4

Season with: Salt.

　　

Step 5

Cook for 5 minutes. Cooking the carrots with the onions for a while builds flavor. Add: 6 cups broth.

　　

Step 6

Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer until the carrots are tender, about 30 minutes. When done, season with salt to taste, and purée if desired.

　　

Variations

Step 7

For a lighter, simpler version, use broth, but skip the preliminary cooking of the onions. Instead add them directly to the broth with the carrots and simmer until tender.

　　

Step 8

Garnish with a bit of whipped cream or crème fraîche seasoned with salt and pepper and chopped herbs. Chervil, chives, or tarragon are all good choices.

　　

Step 9

Add 1/4 cup basmati rice with the carrots, use water instead of broth, add 1 cup of plain yogurt just before puréeing, and garnish with mint.

　　

Step 10

Cook a jalapeño pepper with the onions, add some cilantro before puréeing, and garnish with chopped cilantro.

　　

Step 11

Heat some clarified butter or olive oil, sizzle a spoonful of cumin seeds in it, and spoon this over the soup as a garnish.

　　The Art of Simple Food