One of my favorite candy stores in Puebla is called El Lirio. The owner of the store, Sara Martinez Muñoz, is a lovely woman with white hair and a fighting spirit, who loves to play jokes on her customers. She says that when she sees couples entering the store unsure of what to get, she quietly asks the woman to give her partner a little kiss (which is the name of the candy). Most hesitate, but then oblige—how could they refuse a nice old lady? As they approach the counter, she slowly walks with her cane toward the edge of it, and as the man bends over, she hands him a besito. Invariably they laugh and blush, but it is all soon forgotten once they take a bite of this delicacy. She says the name comes from the fact that they are small and delicious and leave you wanting more, the way a real kiss does.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 4 dozen

　　3 cups pecans, toasted

　　1 cup sugar, plus extra for rolling

　　1/2 cup water

　　

Step 1

Finely grind the pecans in a food processor, making sure you don’t form a paste. Put the sugar and water in a heavy pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Add the ground pecans and stir constantly until thickened, 5 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a food processor and grind into a smooth paste.

　　

Step 2

Roll into small marble-size balls with dampened hands or a small scoop (dip in warm water as needed, removing the excess). Roll in sugar to coat and serve as is or in small paper liners.

　　Reprinted with permission from My Sweet Mexico: Recipes for Authentic Pastries, Breads, Candies, Beverages, and Frozen Treats © 2010 by Fany Gerson. Photographs by Ed Anderson. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House.Buy the full book from Penguin Random House, Amazon, or Bookshop.