This Egyptian village dish usually made with pigeons (hamam) is just as good, and easier to make, with a good corn-fed chicken. Ferik is young green wheat which has been harvested before it is ripe and set alight between layers of straw. The moist young kernels are separated from the charred chaff and straw by threshing, then washed and dried and coarsely ground. There is a pleasant roughness and a lingering smoky flavor about this grain. You will find it (also spelled frika) in Middle Eastern stores. It needs to be washed in 2 or 3 changes of water.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4-6

　　A 3 1/2-pound chicken

　　1 medium onion, peeled and left whole, and 1 large onion, chopped

　　Salt and pepper

　　1 teaspoon ground cardamom

　　1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon

　　1/4 teaspoon allspice

　　4 tablespoons butter or vegetable oil

　　2 cups ferik, washed

　　

Step 1

Put the chicken in a pan with the whole onion and cover with water. Bring to the boil and remove the scum. Add salt, pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, and allspice, and simmer for 1 hour.

　　

Step 2

In another pan, fry the chopped onion in 2 tablespoons of the butter or oil until soft. Add the drained ferik (green wheat) and stir for 1–2 minutes. Pour in 1 cup of the chicken broth, stir well, and cook for 5 minutes, until the water is absorbed. Then stir in the remaining butter.

　　

Step 3

Lift out the chicken, cut it into pieces, and arrange in a baking dish. A clay one with straight sides, called a tagen, is used in Egypt. Spread the wheat on top. Reduce the chicken broth remaining in the pan and boil it down to about 1 1/2 cups. Pour 1 1/2 cups of broth over the wheat, cover with foil, and cook in a preheated 350°F oven for about 30 minutes.

　　

Variation

Step 4

For hamam bel ferik, use 4 baby squabs instead of the chicken, and leave them whole.

　　The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Copyright © 2000Knopf