Active Time

　　1 hour

　　Total Time

　　1 1/2 hours

　　These lacy, savory, funnel-cake-like squiggles, made with the mild Swiss cheese known as Appenzeller, are unbelievably light because of the carbonation of the beer in the batter. They are wonderful when hot — and they're still amazing at room temperature or even a few days later (if you can keep them around for that long).

　　

Ingredients

Makes about 45 hors d'oeuvres

　　1/3 cup whole milk

　　1/4 pound Appenzeller cheese, coarsely grated (1 1/2 cups)

　　1/2 ounce finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/4 cup)

　　3/4 cup all-purpose flour

　　1/4 teaspoon baking powder

　　1/2 teaspoon salt

　　1/8 teaspoon black pepper

　　2 large eggs, lightly beaten

　　1/3 cup beer (not dark)

　　1 quart vegetable oil

　　

Special Equipment

a 12-ounce plastic squeeze bottle with a 1/16-inch hole in tip; a deep-fat thermometer

　　

Step 1

Bring milk just to a boil over moderate heat in a 3-quart heavy saucepan and remove from heat. Whisk in cheeses until melted, then cool to room temperature, about 15 minutes.

　　

Step 2

Meanwhile, whisk together flour, baking powder, salt, and pepper in a large bowl.

　　

Step 3

Stir eggs and beer into cheese mixture, then stir into flour mixture until combined. Force batter through a medium-mesh sieve into a 2-quart measure or bowl and let stand, uncovered, 30 minutes.

　　

Step 4

Transfer batter to squeeze bottle.

　　

Step 5

Heat oil in a deep 10-inch heavy skillet (preferably cast-iron) until thermometer registers 320°F. Working very quickly, squeeze batter into hot oil in loose swirls to form 4 (2 1/2-inch) lacy rounds, then fry, turning over once, until golden, about 1 minute total. (Rounds will expand to about 3 inches as they cook.) Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain in 1 layer. Make more crisps in same manner. Serve warm or at room temperature.

　　Cooks' note:

　　Cheese crisps can be made 2 days ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then kept in an airtight container, layered between sheets of parchment or wax paper, at room temperature. Recrisp on a baking sheet in a preheated 350°F oven, about 15 minutes.