People think risotto is a super-rich dish, made with tons of butter. But when it is made properly, the richness comes from the starchy rice and the stock. To make perfect risotto, really pay attention to what’s happening in the pan. As the risotto cooks, stir it with a wooden spoon in rhythmic movements that go across the bottom and around the sides of the pan. The rice should be constantly bubbling, drinking up the liquid as it cooks.

　　

Ingredients

2 cups 1/2-inch-diced Kabocha squash

　　2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　1 tablespoon thyme leaves

　　4 cups chicken stock

　　5 tablespoons unsalted butter

　　1 cup diced white onion

　　1 chile de árbol, crumbled

　　2 cups high-quality Arborio rice (see Sources)

　　1/4 cup dry white wine

　　1 cup thinly sliced radicchio

　　1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

　　1/4 cup sliced flat-leaf parsley

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

　　

Step 2

Toss the squash with 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon thyme, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and a healthy pinch of pepper. Roast the squash on a baking sheet 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it’s tender when pierced.

　　

Step 3

Bring the chicken stock plus 4 cups water to a boil, and turn off the heat.

　　

Step 4

Heat a medium-sized heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Add the 3 tablespoons butter, and when it foams, add the onion, remaining 2 teaspoons thyme, chile, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper. Sauté 5 to 7 minutes, stirring often, until the onion is translucent.

　　

Step 5

Stir in half the roasted squash, the rice, and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Cook about 2 minutes, stirring continuously, until the rice just begins to toast and the grains of the rice have a white dot at their center. Pour in the white wine, and once it has evaporated, quickly add 1 cup of the hot stock and stir continuously. When the stock is completely absorbed, begin adding the liquid in 1-cup batches, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon in a rhythmic back-and-forth motion. Wait for each batch of liquid to be absorbed before adding the next. The rice should be bubbling and absorbing the stock quickly. After about 15 minutes, taste the rice. It should be slightly al dente. The risotto may need more liquid and more time, so keep cooking until it’s done. It should be neither soupy nor dry; each grain of rice should be coated in a flavorful, starchy “sauce.”

　　

Step 6

When the rice is almost done, turn off the heat and stir in the remaining squash. Let the risotto “rest” for a minute or two and then quickly stir in the radicchio, half the Parmigiano-Reggiano, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Taste for seasoning. The rice will keep absorbing liquid, so add a little more stock if it seems dry. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and the parsley. Spoon the risotto into a large shallow bowl and sprinkle the rest of the cheese on top.

　　Sunday Suppers at Lucques[by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved..Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz.Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles.](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)