Pumpkin, Delicata, acorn, butternut, spaghetti, and kabocha are a few of the many sweet-fleshed winter squashes available in the markets. These are all squashes that are eaten after they have matured and their skins or rinds have hardened. Squash continues to sweeten off the vine. Choose unblemished squash that are firm and heavy. They don’t need to be refrigerated unless they have been cut open. Cut squash in half carefully with a heavy knife on a stable surface. Scoop out the seeds and fiber from the inside cavity. The halves can be roasted until tender, cut side down, or they can be peeled (a swivel-bladed vegetable peeler will work on most squash) and cut up to roast, steam, or sauté. They’re delicious made into soup, by themselves or with other vegetables in a flavorful broth, or puréed.

Ingredients

　　Sweet squash purée makes a fine filling for ravioli or as a substitute for pumpkin in a pie. Choose your favorite variety of squash. Cut the squash in half and scoop out the seeds. Place the halves cut side down on an oiled or parchment-paper-lined baking sheet. Bake in a 350°F oven until the squash is tender throughout. The time will vary depending on the type of squash you have chosen. Remove from the oven, let cool, and then scoop the flesh from the peel. Purée in a food mill or mash with a spoon or potato masher. Season the purée with oil or butter and salt and a little cream, if desired. For variety, stir in some diced ripe pear to the purée or garnish with fried sage leaves.

　　The Art of Simple Food