On the first day of the year that is warm enough to open the windows, we all instantly crave spring foods. While the asparagus, peas, and strawberries we hunger for lag many weeks behind, the early tonics of spring—spring onions, green garlic, and ramps—step in to give us the jolt we need to wake up from winter.

Ingredients

　　Wash and dry 2 bunches of ramps, leaving them whole. Heat a few tablespoons of bacon fat or olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat and then add the ramps. Season well with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, and turn them frequently with tongs as they cook until they soften and begin to wilt, a few minutes. Add a splash of red wine vinegar and cook for another few minutes, until the ramps are completely tender.

　　Cooking in the Moment