Späetzle are little noodles or dumplings made by pressing a sticky dough through a perforated tool right into boiling water—one of the simplest of all the techniques by which pasta is made. These whole-wheat späetzle are especially delicious, dressed simply with butter and grated cheese, and make a good alternative to potatoes as a contorno accompanying roasts or braised meats. The key to making späetzle is having the right tool or utensil, with holes large enough to let the sticky dough pass through easily and quickly. You might have a colander that works, but I recommend that you buy a späetzle-maker designed for the job. There are different kinds—some slide like a mandoline; others extrude the dough, like potato ricers—and both types are inexpensive and easy to use. And you’ll use your späetzle-maker often, I am sure, after you make and taste a batch of spätzle di farina integrale.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　2 large eggs

　　3/4 cup milk, plus more as needed

　　1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

　　1 3/4 cups whole-wheat flour

　　2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

　　1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

　　2 tablespoons butter

　　1/2 cup grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for passing

　　

RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT

A ricer-style or sliding späetzle-maker, or a colander with large hole (1/4 inch or larger); a heavy-bottomed skillet or sauté pan, 12-inch diameter or larger

　　

Step 1

Whisk the eggs, milk, and salt together in a large bowl until thoroughly blended. With a wooden spoon, stir in the flour, parsley, and nutmeg, forming a thick, sticky, batterlike dough. If the dough is stiff, and doesn’t drip like a batter, work in more milk. Let the dough-batter rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

　　

Step 2

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil (at least 6 quarts water with 1 tablespoon salt). Fill the hopper of the späetzle-maker with the batter, hold it over the pot, and press or slide it (depending on the type of tool), forcing the dough through the holes so it drops into the water in small blobs. If you don’t have a späetzle-maker, scoop or pour the batter into the colander or perforated utensil and press it through the holes with a spatula.

　　

Step 3

Press all the batter into späetzle, stirring occasionally so they don’t stick together or to the bottom. Return the water to a steady, gentle boil, and cook for 4 or 5 minutes, until the späetzle are all floating and cooked through; slice and taste one to check for doneness.

　　

Step 4

As the dumplings cook, melt the butter in the skillet over low heat. Scoop the cooked späetzle out of the pot with a spider or large strainer, let drain for a moment, and spill them into the skillet. Still over low heat, toss the späetzle to coat them all with butter and evaporate excess water. Turn off the heat, sprinkle the grated cheese on top, and toss again. Serve immediately.

　　Lidia Cooks from the Heart of Italy by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. Copyright © 2009 Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved.Lidia Mattichio Bastianich is the author of four previous books, three of them accompanied by nationally syndicated public television series. She is the owner of the New York City restaurant Felidia (among others), and she lectures on and demonstrates Italian cooking throughout the country. She lives on Long Island, New York.Tanya Bastianich Manuali, Lidia’s daughter, received her Ph.D. in Renaissance history from Oxford University. Since 1996 she has led food/wine/art tours. She lives with her husband and children on Long Island.