Although we prefer the taste and texture of sheep's-milk ricotta, this recipe can be made using (whole-milk) cow's-milk ricotta, which should first be drained overnight in a cheesecloth-lined sieve set over a bowl. The grapevine leaves make for a beautiful presentation, but, because they haven't been softened in water, they should not be eaten.

　　

Ingredients

Serves 8 as an hors d'oeuvre

　　1 large fennel bulb (sometimes called anise; about 1 pound)

　　2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　1/3 cup pine nuts

　　1/3 cup golden raisins

　　1/3 cup Kalamata or other brine-cured black olives

　　3/4 teaspoon salt

　　1 pound sheep's-milk ricotta* (about 2 cups; see note)

　　about 15 leaves from a 1-pound jar brine-packed grape leaves**

　　

Accompaniments:

toasted thinly sliced rustic Italian bread

　　assorted brine-cured olives

　　*available at some specialty foods shops and by mail order from Old Chatham Sheepherding Company, tel. (888) 743-3760

　　**available at specialty foods shops and some supermarkets

　　

Step 1

Trim fennel stalks flush with bulb, discarding stalks, and remove core. With a mandoline or other hand-held manual slicer cut bulb into very thin slices and coarsely chop. In a large skillet cook fennel in oil over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 10 minutes. In a dry small skillet toast pine nuts over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until pale golden, about 5 minutes. Coarsely chop pine nuts and raisins. Pit and chop olives.

　　

Step 2

In a bowl combine fennel, pine nuts, raisins, olives, salt, and pepper to taste. Add ricotta and gently toss together.

　　

Step 3

Drain grapevine leaves and pat dry. Line bottom and side of a 9-inch pie plate with a layer of overlapping leaves, leaving a 2-inch overhang. Spread ricotta mixture over leaves and fold overhang in toward center. Use more leaves to cover exposed ricotta . Chill spread at least 1 hour and up to 3 days. Invert a platter over pie plate and invert leaf-covered spread onto platter. Peel back center leaves and serve spread chilled or at room temperature with toasts and olives.