This riff on veal piccata is not a complicated dish, but it does have a few steps to it and requires some planning to allow the sweetbreads time to soak overnight. Poaching the sweetbreads in milk and aromatics before sautéing them ensures they’ll turn out sweet and meltingly tender. I prefer veal sweetbreads, though you can use lamb. Either one is usually sold in one-pound packs, with two large lobes per pack. If you don’t see them out on display—they’re usually not—ask the butcher if there are any in back, and make sure they are impeccably fresh. The delicate richness of the dish means that nothing more than boiled potatoes are needed as an accompaniment.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　2 pounds veal sweetbreads

　　1 large carrot, peeled and chopped

　　1 small onion, peeled and halved

　　2 stalks celery, cut in half horizontally

　　1 head garlic, halved horizontally

　　About 1/2 gallon milk

　　2 lemons

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

　　Flour, for coating

　　1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

　　2 tablespoons unsalted butter

　　2 tablespoons salt-packed capers, rinsed

　　1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

　　

Step 1

The night before you plan to serve the sweetbreads, set them to soak in a bowl of water in the refrigerator. You’ll want to change the water a few times to make sure you remove any traces of blood or impurities. When ready to cook, drain and rinse.

　　

Step 2

Put the sweetbreads in a large saucepan along with the carrot, onion, celery, and garlic. Cover with milk by 1 inch, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 to 12 minutes, or until just cooked through.

　　

Step 3

Remove the sweetbreads and discard the milk and vegetables. Place on a plate, then top with another plate. Add a weight to the top plate—2 heavy cans or a cast-iron pan would do—and put in the fridge until they are completely cool, at least 2 hours.

　　

Step 4

While the sweetbreads are cooling, cut a slice off both ends of one of the lemons. Standing the lemon on end, slice strips from top to bottom, removing all the peel and pith. Repeat until there is no peel left. Then slice between the membranes to release the individual segments. Dice the segments and reserve. Juice the second lemon and reserve.

　　

Step 5

When the sweetbreads are cool, pat them dry. Divide them gently into individual lobes—there should be 1 large lobe per person. (Save scraps for stuffing or for a chef’s treat.) Season with salt and pepper and coat each lightly with flour.

　　

Step 6

Divide the olive oil between 2 sauté pans and heat over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, carefully add the sweetbreads to the oil and brown all over, about 2 minutes per side.

　　

Step 7

Transfer to a plate and drain the oil. Wipe out the pans, place over medium heat, and return the sweetbreads to the pans. Divide the butter, diced lemon, capers, and lemon juice between the pans. Swirl the sauce and use a spoon to coat the sweetbreads. Place the sweetbreads on 4 plates, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.

　　Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen