Some of our favorite customers—that is, Bobby Sontag—say that liver should always be served rare. This is (yet) another time where we disagree with him. Regarding Montreal smoked meat, we have one word: Schwartz’s. Not unlike bagels, smoked meat preferences fuel wars and countless throwdowns. In fact, the best smoked meat is the one you prefer. If you can’t get Montreal smoked beef brisket, you can substitute pastrami or even corned beef.

　　

Ingredients

Serves 1

　　8 ounces (225 g) veal liver, cut into 4 thin slices

　　1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons Montreal Steak Spice (page 250)

　　2 tablespoons neutral oil

　　4 slices Montreal smoked beef brisket, cut the same width and slightly thinner than the liver

　　1 large dill pickle

　　Prepared yellow mustard and ketchup for serving

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 475°F (240°C). Season the liver slices liberally with the steak spice.

　　

Step 2

Select a nonstick frying pan or sauté pan large enough to hold all the liver slices in a single layer. Place over medium heat and add the oil. When the oil is hot, add the liver slices and sear, turning once, for 2 minutes on each side, or until done to your liking. Transfer the liver to a plate.

　　

Step 3

Add the smoked meat to the same pan over medium heat without any additional oil. Toss with tongs for about 1 minute, then remove from the heat.

　　

Step 4

Layer the meats “Napoleon style,” alternating the liver and brisket. Cut the pickle lengthwise into medium slices, like you would for a burger, and place on top. Serve with the mustard and ketchup.

　　Reprinted with permission from The Art of Living According to Joe Beef by Frédéric Morin, David McMillan & Meredith Erickson, copyright © 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.