Here is a simple presentation of the components of Rome’s saltimbocca embroidered with spring peas and tomatoes.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　4 ounces prosciutto

　　2 ounces pancetta

　　5 fat cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

　　9 large leaves sage

　　1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

　　2 pounds veal, cut from the leg in 3-inch chunks

　　2 teaspoons fine sea salt

　　2 cups dry white wine

　　7 ounces canned plum tomatoes, with some juices

　　1 pound spring peas, shelled

　　Zest of 1 lemon

　　

Step 1

With a mezzaluna or a sharp knife, mince the prosciutto, pancetta, 3 cloves of garlic, and 6 leaves of sage together to make a paste.

　　

Step 2

In a terra-cotta or enameled cast-iron casserole over a medium flame, warm the olive oil and heat the fragrant paste, sautéing it for a minute or two.

　　

Step 3

Dry the veal on absorbent paper towels and, a few pieces at a time, seal the veal in the hot fat, coloring it well on all sides. Remove the veal to a platter and proceed until all of it has been treated. Toss the veal with the sea salt.

　　

Step 4

Add half the wine to the still-warm casserole, stirring and scraping at the residue and permitting it to reduce for a minute or two. Add the tomatoes, the remaining wine, and the veal and bring the mixture to a quiet simmer.

　　

Step 5

Cover the casserole, its lid barely askew, and braise the veal for 40 minutes. Add the peas and continue the gentlest braise for another 20 minutes, or until the meat is melting into its sauce. Permit the stufatino to rest for at least 1/2 hour or as long as several hours. Just before serving the veal, mince 2 cloves of the garlic, 3 sage leaves, and the lemon zest nearly down to a powder with a mezzaluna or a very sharp knife.

　　

Step 6

Slowly reheat the stufatino—or, on a warm evening, present it at room temperature—ladling it into shallow bowls, dusting it with the garlic/sage/lemon mixture, and offering it with cold white wine and warm, just-toasted bread.

　　A Taste of Southern Italy