Instead of calling for slices of roast veal—which would take some work—I went for white-meat turkey, an easily found option (I bought mine at a deli), and one that doesn't differ all that much in taste and texture from cold veal.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 4 servings

　　1 cup mayonnaise

　　1 (6-ounce) can tuna packed in olive oil (preferably imported from Italy)

　　1/4 cup fresh parsley leaves

　　2 tablespoons capers, drained

　　2 tablespoons minced shallots

　　6 anchovy fillets, minced

　　About 1/4 cup olive oil or hot water

　　Salt and black pepper

　　8 slices sandwich bread, toasted if desired (or use French bread)

　　8 (1/4- to 3/8-inch-thick) slices white-meat turkey

　　

Step 1

1. Combine the mayonnaise with the tuna, parsley, capers, shallots, and anchovies. Whisk in enough olive oil (or water), a little at a time, to achieve a creamy consistency. Taste, and add salt and black pepper as necessary.

　　

Step 2

2. Lay out 4 slices bread. Top each with a thin layer of sauce; cover with a slice of turkey, then more sauce, then another slice of turkey, then finally more sauce and top layers of bread. Slice the sandwiches in half to display the interior layers, and serve.

　　Reprinted with permission from How to Cook Everything: Bittman Takes on America's Chefs by Mark Bittman. © 2005 Wiley