The North African hot sauce called harissa lends this soup its beautiful brick-red color, as well as a deep, spicy warmth that isn’t the least bit aggressive. For a supper that’s both robust and rejuvenating, chard, chickpeas, and noodles go into the pot, too.

　　

Ingredients

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

　　1 pound Swiss chard, stems and center ribs chopped and leaves coarsely chopped (reserve separately)

　　1 medium red onion, chopped

　　2 large garlic cloves, minced

　　3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　2 tablespoons tomato paste

　　2 quarts rich and flavorful chicken stock ; or 5 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth diluted with 3 cups water

　　1 to 2 tablespoons harissa or other hot sauce (to taste)

　　1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

　　1 (19-ounces) can chickpeas, rinsed

　　4 ounce fine egg noodles (about 1 1/2 cups)

　　Equipment: an electric coffee/spice grinder

　　Accompaniment: lemon wedges

　　

Step 1

Toast cumin in a dry small heavy skillet (preferably cast-iron) over medium heat, stirring, until deeply fragrant and dark brown (be careful not to burn). Cool, then grind to a powder in grinder.

　　

Step 2

Cook chard stems, onion, garlic, 1/2 teaspoon each of cumin and salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until beginning to brown, about 12 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add stock, harissa, and lemon juice and simmer, covered, 30 minutes.

　　

Step 3

Add chard leaves, chickpeas, and noodles with 1/2 teaspoon salt and simmer, covered, until tender, about 7 minutes.

　　

Step 4

Serve soup sprinkled with remaining cumin.

　　Cooks’ notes:

　　Soup, without noodles, can be made 3 days ahead and chilled (covered once cool). Bring to a simmer and cook noodles in soup before serving.