Active Time

　　30 min

　　Total Time

　　1 1/4 hr

　　This dish takes the best of traditional choucroute garni—smoked pork married to sauerkraut that's had its bite removed by being simmered in wine with bay and juniper—and lightens it up, pairing it with another Alsatian favorite, trout, and transforming a stick-to-the-ribs dish into something fit for a first course. You'll be pleasantly surprised at how the slight acidity of the kraut and the smokiness of the bacon play up, rather than dominate, the fish's clean flavor.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 4 servings

　　4 bacon slices

　　1 large onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced

　　3 tablespoons unsalted butter

　　1 pound sauerkraut, drained, rinsed, and squeezed dry

　　2 juniper berries, slightly crushed

　　1 Turkish or 1/2 California bay leaf

　　1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

　　2/3 cup dry white wine (preferably Alsatian Riesling)

　　3/4 cup water

　　4 (4- to 5-ounce) trout fillets with skin, pin bones removed

　　

Step 1

Cook bacon in a 10-inch nonreactive heavy skillet over medium-low heat, turning occasionally, until lightly browned but still flexible. Drain on paper towels.

　　

Step 2

Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from skillet, then cook onion with butter in skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in remaining ingredients, except trout, and 1/8 teaspoon each of salt and pepper and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, until liquid is absorbed and mixture is tender and lightly browned, 25 to 35 minutes.

　　

Step 3

While sauerkraut mixture cooks, put trout, skin sides down, on a work surface. Pat fillets dry and lightly season with salt and pepper, then put a strip of bacon on each. Roll up fillets from wider end, enclosing bacon and securing each with a wooden pick.

　　

Step 4

Arrange rolls, wider spiral sides up, on sauerkraut mixture and cover with a round of buttered parchment paper, then with a lid. Cook, covered, over medium heat until fish is just cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes. Discard bay leaf, juniper berries, and wooden picks. Serve trout on sauerkraut.