The consistency and flavor of bottled Asian chile sauces can vary, as can the heat of fresh chiles, so make adjustments to taste. For these tropical rolls, we found the thinner Wei-Chuan brand spring roll wrappers worked best.

　　Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 1 hr

　　

Ingredients

Makes 4 first-course servings

　　

For chile sauce

1 cup Asian sweet chile sauce* (preferably Mae Ploy brand)

　　1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

　　1 tablespoon Asian fish sauce

　　1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

　　1 teaspoon palm sugar* or packed brown sugar

　　1 teaspoon grated peeled fresh ginger

　　1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh cilantro

　　1/4 teaspoon finely chopped fresh hot chile (such as Thai or serrano, preferably red), including seeds

　　

For spring rolls

1 1/2 lb shrimp in shell, peeled, deveined, and coarsely chopped (1/2-inch pieces)

　　1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

　　3/4 teaspoon salt

　　8 Chinese spring roll wrappers*

　　2 teaspoons water

　　1 teaspoon cornstarch

　　About 1 cup vegetable oil

　　

Make chile sauce:

Step 1

Stir together sauce ingredients in a bowl until just combined. Chill, covered.

　　

Make spring rolls:

Step 2

Stir together shrimp, cilantro, and salt.

　　

Step 3

Put 1 spring roll wrapper on a work surface with a corner nearest you, keeping remaining wrappers covered with plastic wrap. Spread 1/2 cup shrimp mixture across wrapper, 3 inches from bottom corner, to form a 4-inch log, leaving a 1 1/4-inch border at each end. Fold bottom corner over filling, then fold in side corners and roll up snugly to enclose shrimp. Stir together water and cornstarch in a bowl until smooth, then brush seams with mixture to seal. Transfer roll, seam side down, to a baking sheet lined with wax paper and keep covered with plastic wrap. Make more spring rolls in same manner, transferring to baking sheet as formed.

　　

Step 4

Heat 1/4 inch oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet (preferably cast-iron) over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then fry 2 or 3 spring rolls, seam sides down, until golden, about 2 minutes. Turn over and fry until other side is golden, 2 to 3 minutes more. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Fry remaining spring rolls in same manner. Halve and serve hot or warm with sauce.

　　Cooks' notes:

　　• Sauce can be made, without cilantro, 1 day ahead and chilled. Add cilantro just before serving. • Spring rolls can be formed (but not cooked) 6 hours ahead and chilled, covered with plastic wrap. * Available at Asian markets.