Active Time

　　10 min

　　Total Time

　　30 min

　　An inexpensive, well-marbled tri-tip roast (a cut from the bottom sirloin) easily yields individual steaks. A star of California's Santa Maria Valley barbecue scene for decades, it is sure to become one of your favorites as well. Tarragon isn't absolutely necessary, but it does give the fries a certain flair.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 4 servings

　　28 to 30 ounces frozen french fries

　　3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

　　1 (1 1/2-to 2-pounds) tri-tip beef roast (also called triangular roast; about 2 inches thick), cut into 4 steaks

　　2 teaspoons cracked black peppercorns

　　1/4 cup dry red wine

　　1/2 cup water

　　2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons

　　3 tablespoons finely chopped tarragon (optional)

　　Accompaniment: Dijon mustard

　　

Step 1

Preheat oven to 475°F with racks in upper and lower thirds, with a 4-sided sheet pan in lower third.

　　

Step 2

Toss fries with 2 tablespoons oil in hot sheet pan, then bake according to package instructions until golden and crisp.

　　

Step 3

Meanwhile, pat steaks dry, then rub with peppercorns and 1/2 teaspoon salt.

　　

Step 4

Heat remaining tablespoon oil in an ovenproof 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Sear steaks on all sides, about 3 minutes total. Transfer skillet to upper third of oven and roast 9 to 10 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer steaks to a plate and let rest 5 minutes.

　　

Step 5

Add wine to skillet and boil, scraping up brown bits, until reduced by half, about 1 minute. Add water and meat juices from plate and boil briskly until reduced by half, 3 to 4 minutes. Whisk in butter until incorporated. Season with salt and pepper.

　　

Step 6

Sprinkle fries with tarragon. Serve steaks with sauce and fries.