Reminiscent of canned chipotles in adobo, but obviously fresher and with an emphasis on the tomatoes and the smokiness the chipotles bring, rather than their heat. (You can, of course, make it hotter by adding more chipotles.) It’s good stirred into soups but is used primarily as a salsa for bland dishes, whose blandness will be turned around immediately.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 2 cups

　　2 tablespoons lard or neutral oil, like corn or grapeseed

　　1 medium white onion, chopped

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　2 dried chipotle chiles, or to taste

　　2 cups cored and chopped tomatoes, preferably fresh

　　Chopped fresh cilantro leaves for garnish

　　

Step 1

Put the lard in a medium saucepan or skillet over medium heat. When it is hot, add the onion and some salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to brown at the edges, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the chiles, tomatoes, and 1/2 cup water and adjust the heat so the mixture simmers steadily but not violently. Cook for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until the chiles are soft and the tomatoes broken up. Taste and add more salt and pepper if necessary.

　　

Step 2

Cool for a few minutes (you should always take care when pureeing hot mixtures), then remove the stems from the chipotles. Put the mixture in a blender and puree. Use immediately, garnished with the cilantro, or cover and refrigerate for up to several days, garnishing only at the last minute. (Bring back to room temperature before serving.)

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.