My brother Michael once told me the two questions I should ask anyone who claims to make real (i.e., Texasstyle) chili. Question one: What kind of beans do you put in it? Question two: What kind of tomatoes do you use? Both are trick questions, of course, because the answer to both is none. There are no beans and no tomatoes in real Texas chili. The full name is “chili con carne,” and that’s what it means: chile peppers with meat, and very little else. When done right, it’s a beautiful thing. With only one kind of chile and at least 6 hours of simmering, it’s got the round flavors and slow-burning heat that define a “bowl o’ red.” If you want something hotter, add up to 1 teaspoon of cayenne pepper, or to taste. I usually make at least two servings, because after eating the first one (with saltines, grated Cheddar cheese, chopped onions, and, okay, even pinto beans as long as they’re on the side), I love the second serving on a hot dog or burger, or as part of enchiladas (page 64).

　　

Ingredients

makes 2 servings

　　3 dried ancho chiles

　　2 cups dark beer, beef stock, or water, plus more as needed

　　1 tablespoon vegetable oil

　　1 pound beef stew meat or chuck roast (trimmed of excess fat), cut into 1/2-inch pieces (not ground)

　　Kosher or sea salt

　　Freshly ground black pepper

　　2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

　　2 large shallot lobes, finely chopped

　　2 tablespoons dried oregano (preferably Mexican)

　　1 tablespoon ground cumin

　　1 teaspoon pimenton (smoked Spanish paprika)

　　Ground cayenne pepper (optional)

　　1 to 2 ounces Cheddar cheese, grated

　　Saltine crackers

　　

Step 1

Cut or tear apart the ancho chiles, discarding the seeds and stems. Toss them into a dry skillet over medium heat and toast for 5 minutes, just until fragrant, without allowing them to char. Transfer them to a blender, pour in 1/2 cup of the beer, and blend until smooth.

　　

Step 2

Heat the oil in a small Dutch oven over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Season the beef generously with salt and pepper. When the oil shimmers, add just enough meat to the pot to avoid overcrowding. Cook in batches, stirring frequently, until the beef starts to brown, 3 to 4 minutes per batch.

　　

Step 3

Return all the meat to the pot, add the garlic and half the chopped shallots, and cook for a few minutes, stirring constantly, until the beef is browned all over and the garlic and shallots are soft. Stir in the oregano, cumin, pimenton, and ancho puree. Add enough of the remaining 1 1/2 cups beer to cover the meat by 1 inch.

　　

Step 4

Bring to a boil, decrease the heat to low so that the mixture is at a bare simmer, and cover. Cook for 6 hours, stirring occasionally if desired. Uncover and use a spatula to mash and break up the meat. Cook, uncovered, for another hour or two, until the chili has become quite thick and the meat has almost melted into the liquid. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and cayenne pepper.

　　

Step 5

Spoon half the chili into a bowl, sprinkle with the remaining chopped shallots and the cheese, and eat with saltines. Refrigerate the remaining half in an airtight container for up to 1 week, or freeze for several months.

　　Cooks' Note

　　This recipe doubles easily, if you’d like more of a payoff for your time. You can also make this in a small slow cooker. Cook on Low for 6 to 8 hours, then uncover, turn to High, and cook for another hour to thicken the chili.

　　Reprinted with permission from Serve Yourself: Nightly Adventures in Cooking for One by Joe Yonan. Text copyright © 2011 by Joe Yonan; photographs copyright © 2011 by Ed Anderson. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc.Joe Yonan is the food and travel editor at the Washington Post, where he writes the award-winning "Cooking for One" column. Joe's work also earned the Post the 2009 and 2010 James Beard Foundation's award for best food section. He is the former travel editor at the Boston Globe. Visit www.joeyonan.com.