A favorite Indian snack, batata vada are thinly coated by a batter made with garbanzo bean flour, which fries up crisp and then settles into a delicate chewiness. Inside, the cheery yellow potato filling (colored by turmeric) speckled by mustard seed bursts with flavor from chile, ginger, lime juice, and fresh herbs. Each one is a small eating adventure in trying to parse the individual elements while enjoying the synergistic whole. You can make the experience more fun with plops of chutney. Called bondas in Southern India and batata vada in Northern India, these dumplings are beloved all over the country. In Bombay, they are shaped as patties and served in a bun as a hamburger-like sandwich called vada pao. Garbanzo bean flour (called bésan in Hindi) is available at Indian grocery stores and health food markets. It has numerous uses in Indian cuisine, as a thickener as well as in batters for fried snacks.

　　

Ingredients

makes 18 to 20 dumplings, serving 4 to 6

　　

Filling

3 medium red (boiling) potatoes (1 1/4 pounds)

　　1 teaspoon plus scant 1/2 teaspoon salt

　　1 tablespoon canola oil

　　1 teaspoon brown or black mustard seeds

　　1 to 3 hot green chiles, such as Thai or serrano, finely chopped

　　2 to 3 teaspoons minced fresh ginger

　　1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric

　　10 to 12 curry leaves, chopped (optional)

　　2 or 4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro, leafy tops only (use larger quantity if not using curry leaves)

　　1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

　　1/4 pound (1 cup) garbanzo bean flour

　　1/2 teaspoon salt

　　Scant 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric

　　1/4 teaspoon baking soda

　　1/2 cup water

　　Canola or peanut oil, for deep-frying

　　2/3 cup Tamarind and Date Chutney (page 220) and/or Green Chutney (page 221)

　　

Step 1

To make the filling, peel and quarter the potatoes. Half-fill a medium pot with water and add the 1 teaspoon salt. Bring the water to a boil and add the potatoes. After the water returns to a boil, adjust the heat to bubble gently for about 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender but not falling apart; test by sticking a thin-blade knife into a piece of potato. Drain and transfer to a bowl. Partially cover with a foil tent or pot lid to keep warm. Set aside.

　　

Step 2

Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat until nearly smoking. Add the mustard seeds, lower the heat to medium, and partially cover. When the seeds sputter and pop, giving off a nutty aroma, you can shake the skillet or briefly remove it from the heat to mitigate the drama. When the noise stops, add the chile and ginger. Cook, stirring, for about 30 seconds, or until fragrant. Remove from the heat and stir in the turmeric, curry leaves, and cilantro. Add to the potato, then sprinkle in the remaining scant 1/2 teaspoon salt and lime juice. Mash the potato to combine the ingredients. Aim for a fairly smooth mixture with small chunks of potato to lend a nice texture. Taste and if needed, add extra salt and/or lime juice for depth and tang; the lime juice also cuts some of the heat.

　　

Step 3

Use your hands to shape the potato mixture into sixteen balls, each about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. As you work, set the finished balls on a baking sheet or platter. Set near the stove.

　　

Step 4

To make the batter, whisk together the garbanzo bean flour, salt, turmeric, and baking soda. Whisk in the water to create a mustard-colored batter that resembles thick pancake batter. Add additional water by the teaspoon if it is too thick. Set near the stove.

　　

Step 5

Line a plate with paper towels and place near the stove. Pour 2 inches of oil into a medium saucepan, wok, or Dutch oven. Heat over medium-high heat to about 350°F on a deep-fry thermometer. (If you do not have a deep-fry thermometer, stick a dry bamboo chopstick into the oil; if bubbles rise immediately to the surface and encircle the chopstick, the oil is ready.) Fry in batches of 5 to 8, as many as can comfortably fit in the pan. Use your fingers to dip, roll, and coat each potato ball in the batter; the surface will not be evenly coated, and there may be some small peaks of batter, which may fry up as charming horns. Gently slip the dumpling into the hot oil. Fry for 5 to 7 minutes, gently stirring and turning occasionally. After about 3 minutes, the balls should float to the top. When they are golden brown, use a slotted spoon or skimmer to scoop them up and transfer them to the paper towels to drain. Repeat to fry the remaining potato balls; adjust the heat as needed.

　　

Step 6

Serve the batata vada hot, warm, or at room temperature with both or one of the chutneys. Refrigerate left overs, bring to room temperature, and reheat in a 350°F oven for about 6 minutes, or until hot.

　　Cooks' Note

　　Resembling tender, svelte bay leaves in looks, but full of lemony zing, slender fresh curry leaves are available at Indian markets and some Southeast Asian markets. Whole branches are sold in plastic bags. Look for fresh, supple leaves and avoid dried ones. They keep well frozen for up to 3 months.

　　Reprinted with permission from Asian Dumplings: Mastering Gyoza, Spring Rolls, Samosas, and More © 2009 by Andrea Nguyen, Ten Speed Press.Buy the full book from Amazon or from Bookshop.