In North Africa the almond stuffing is colored green to give the semblance of pistachios, which are considered grander. You can of course use real pistachios.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 50

　　1 1/2 cups ground almonds or pistachios

　　1/2 cup superfine sugar

　　2–3 tablespoons rose water or orange-blossom water

　　1 pound dried dates (the soft California or Tunisian ones)

　　

Step 1

Mix the ground almonds or pistachios and sugar in a bowl, and add just enough rose or orange-blossom water to bind them into a firm paste. Put in less than you seem to require, as, once you start kneading with your hands, the oil from the almonds will act as an extra bind. Alternatively, you can start with blanched almonds or pistachios and blend all the ingredients except the dates to a paste in a food processor.

　　

Step 2

Make a slit on one side of each date with a pointed knife and pull out the pit. Take a small lump of almond or pistachio paste, pull the date open wide, press the paste in the opening, and close the date only slightly over it, so that the filling is revealed generously. They keep well for weeks.

　　The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Copyright © 2000Knopf