Carnivores need a veggie break now and then, and this taco satisfies. The moist mushrooms stand in for the meat, the onions pack a sweet-spicy punch, goat cheese adds a touch of tart richness, good old lettuce gives the crunch, and a final drizzle of Salsa Verde (page 14) reminds you that, well, every taco can benefit from a final drizzle of salsa.

　　

Ingredients

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

　　1/2 teaspoon ground ancho, chipotle, or other chile

　　1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

　　1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

　　1 small red onion, thinly sliced (about 1 1/2 cups)

　　3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

　　1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt

　　1/2 teaspoon sugar

　　3 or 4 corn tortillas, preferably homemade (page 84)

　　6 ounces oyster, cremini, hen of the woods, or other meaty mushrooms, cut into large pieces

　　1 ounce soft goat cheese, cut into small pieces

　　2 large leaves romaine lettuce, shredded

　　1 to 2 tablespoons Salsa Verde (page 14) or salsa of your choice

　　

Step 1

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it shimmers, sprinkle in the ground ancho, cumin, and cinnamon and cook until the spices sizzle and are very fragrant, about 30 seconds. Toss in the onion slices, stirring to break them apart. Cook until the onion starts to soften, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the garlic, salt, and sugar. Decrease the heat to low and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very soft, about 10 minutes.

　　

Step 2

While the onions are cooking, warm the tortillas (see page 85) and wrap them in aluminum foil to keep warm.

　　

Step 3

Increase the heat under the skillet to medium-high, add the mushrooms, toss to combine, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms exude their juices and are just tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

　　

Step 4

Lay the tortillas out on a plate. Divide the mushroom-onion mixture among the tortillas. Top each with a few pieces of goat cheese, a tablespoon or two of shredded lettuce, and a drizzle of salsa, and eat.

　　Reprinted with permission from Serve Yourself: Nightly Adventures in Cooking for One by Joe Yonan. Text copyright © 2011 by Joe Yonan; photographs copyright © 2011 by Ed Anderson. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc.Joe Yonan is the food and travel editor at the Washington Post, where he writes the award-winning "Cooking for One" column. Joe's work also earned the Post the 2009 and 2010 James Beard Foundation's award for best food section. He is the former travel editor at the Boston Globe. Visit www.joeyonan.com.