I wouldn’t hazard a guess as to the romantic preferences of clams. What I do know is that this dish works equally well served as a substantial soup or as a brothy pasta, depending on your own desires. I use jumbo clams in this dish because they have a more pronounced flavor. They are a bit chewier, but I think the improved flavor is worth a small sacrifice in terms of texture. For the pasta, this is where you get to have some fun. Use a ridged pastry wheel if you want your squares to be extra elegant, or haul out a sharp knife if you want basic squares. Either way, they’ll taste delicious.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　12 ounces fresh Semolina Pasta sheets (page 84)

　　Kosher salt

　　4 pounds jumbo clams

　　3 cloves garlic, sliced paper-thin

　　Juice of 1/2 lemon

　　1 cup white wine

　　2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　8 ramps, thinly sliced

　　

Step 1

Cut the pasta sheets into 1/2-inch strips with a knife or pastry wheel. Cut at 1/2-inch intervals to form 1/2-inch squares. Set a large pot of salted water on the stove to boil.

　　

Step 2

In a large pot with a lid, combine the clams, garlic, lemon juice, and wine. Cover, place over high heat, and bring to a boil. Steam the clams just until they open—no more than a few minutes after the liquid has come to a boil. This ensures they will stay tender. Discard any clams that fail to open. When cool enough to handle, remove the clams from their shells and reserve them in their liquid.

　　

Step 3

Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until just al dente.

　　

Step 4

While the pasta cooks, heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat and sauté the ramps until soft, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the clams and their liquid, then drain the pasta and add to the pan; swirl to combine. Serve in deep, warmed bowls.

　　Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen