The raita — a type of Indian yogurt sauce — makes a terrific dip for the rolls. A cilantro raita seemed right for this global menu because cilantro is one of the most widely used herbs in the world.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 4 first-course or side-dish servings

　　

For rolls

1 cup vegetable oil

　　1/2 pound shallots, thinly sliced (2 cups)

　　8 medium Swiss chard leaves, stems trimmed flush with leaves

　　

For raita

1 small garlic clove

　　1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

　　1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro

　　1 cup whole-milk yogurt

　　a deep-fat thermometer

　　

Fry shallots:

Step 1

Heat oil in a 1-quart saucepan over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking (365°F on deep-fat thermometer), then fry shallots in 3 batches, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer as fried with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain, spreading evenly, then cool.

　　

Make rolls:

Step 2

Cook chard leaves in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer with tongs to a bowl of ice and cold water to stop cooking. Drain well and pat dry with paper towels.

　　

Step 3

Halve each leaf lengthwise, discarding rib. Place 1 tablespoon shallots at 1 end of a chard strip and firmly roll up, forming a cigar shape. Make 15 more rolls in same manner.

　　

Make raita:

Step 4

Mash garlic to a paste with sea salt using a mortar and pestle (or mince and mash with a large heavy knife). Purée cilantro with garlic paste and 1/4 cup yogurt in a blender, scraping down sides occasionally. Transfer to a bowl and stir in remaining 3/4 cup yogurt. Serve chard rolls with raita.