With names like Good Mother Stallard, Goat’s Eye, and Yellow Indian Woman, the dried heirloom beans from Rancho Gordo (see page 55) charm diners familiar with only generic dried beans. Rancho Gordo proprietor Steve Sando finds some of these intriguing beans in Mexico and Central America and arranges to buy them direct from the farmers. Others are grown on farms in Northern California. You can use a single bean type for this dish, but Brian prefers to use multiple varieties, simmering them separately to accommodate their different cooking times. Just before serving, he unites them with a tomato sauce and some blanched fresh yellow and green beans. You could make a meal of this summer stew with a green salad and some crusty bread, or serve it as an accompaniment to grilled lamb. Note that the beans must soak overnight.

　　

Ingredients

serves 8 as a main dish, 12 as a side dish

　　

Dried Beans

1 pound dried heirloom beans, preferably mixed varieties

　　1 1/2 yellow onions, peeled, cut into thick wedges

　　3 carrots, peeled, cut into large chunks

　　3 celery ribs, cut into large chunks

　　3 bay leaves

　　Kosher salt

　　1/4 pound yellow wax beans, ends trimmed, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

　　1/4 pound slender green beans, ends trimmed, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

　　2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　1/4 pound pancetta, diced

　　1 yellow onion, finely chopped

　　2 cloves garlic, minced

　　1 1/2 cups peeled, seeded, and diced plum tomatoes (fresh or canned)

　　1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

　　Freshly ground black pepper

　　

Step 1

For the dried beans: Keeping the beans separate by variety, soak them overnight in water to cover generously. Drain. Put each type in a separate saucepan and add cold water to cover by 3 inches.

　　

Step 2

Divide the onions, carrots, celery, and bay leaves among the pots. Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming any foam. Reduce the heat to maintain a bare simmer and cook, uncovered, until the beans are tender, about 1 hour or more, depending on age. Season to taste with salt and let cool in the broth. Drain the beans, reserving the broths separately. Discard the vegetables and bay leaves.

　　

Step 3

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the wax and green beans together and cook until just tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain, transfer to ice water to chill, and drain again.

　　

Step 4

Heat the olive oil in a large, wide pot over high heat. Add the pancetta and sauté until it begins to crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the onion and garlic, lower the heat to medium, and cook until the onion softens, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring, until the tomatoes soften and begin to form a sauce, about 5 minutes. Add the drained heirloom beans and enough of the reserved broth to just cover them, 2 to 3 cups. (Use the most flavorful broth first, then supplement with the others if needed. Freeze any remaining broth for soup or risotto.) Bring to a simmer and cook gently for about 10 minutes to thicken the juices and blend the flavors. Stir in the yellow and green beans and the parsley. Simmer for about 2 minutes longer, then season with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

　　

Step 5

Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Dancing Bear Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon or another robust red wine.

　　The Cakebread Cellars American Harvest Cookbook