Food editor Gina Marie Miraglia Eriquez's southern Italian grandmother makes this dish every September. The eggplants get a workout, but the result is worth the effort.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 4 (main course) servings

　　

For tomato sauce

1 (28-oz) can whole tomatoes in juice (preferably Italian)

　　3 tablespoons olive oil

　　4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

　　1 1/4 cups water

　　2 tablespoons tomato paste

　　1 teaspoon sugar

　　3/4 teaspoon salt

　　2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

　　

For eggplant and stuffing

4 small Italian eggplants (1 1/2 lb total; preferably with stem attached

　　1/2 cup long-grain white rice

　　3/4 cup water

　　3 slices firm white sandwich bread, torn into 1-inch pieces

　　1/4 cup whole milk

　　3 garlic cloves, minced

　　2 large eggs, lightly beaten

　　3 oz finely grated Pecorino Romano (1 1/4 cups)

　　1/3 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

　　1/3 cup chopped fresh basil

　　1 teaspoon salt

　　1 teaspoon black pepper

　　About 2 cups vegetable oil

　　

Special Equipment

a deep-fat thermometer

　　

Make sauce:

Step 1

Drain tomatoes, reserving juice, then finely chop. Heat oil in a 4- to 5-quart heavy pot over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then cook garlic, stirring, until golden, about 1 minute. Add tomatoes with reserved juice, water, tomato paste, sugar, and salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 30 minutes. Stir in basil.

　　

Boil eggplants and make filling while sauce simmers:

Step 2

Bring a 5- to 6-quart pot of salted water to a boil over moderately high heat.

　　

Step 3

Prick eggplants all over with a fork. Boil eggplants, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until tender when pierced with a knife, 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a colander to drain and discard cooking water. When eggplants are cool enough to handle (after about 15 minutes), halve eggplants lengthwise through stem (keep stem attached). With a small sharp knife, scoop out and reserve flesh, leaving 1/4-inch-thick shells. Very finely chop flesh and transfer to a large bowl.

　　

Step 4

Bring rice and water to a boil in a 1-quart heavy saucepan, uncovered, then reduce heat and simmer rice, covered, until water has been absorbed and rice is tender, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 5 minutes. Fluff rice with a fork and add to chopped eggplant.

　　

Step 5

While rice cooks, combine bread and milk in a small bowl and let stand until bread has absorbed milk, then gently squeeze bread, discarding any milk.

　　

Step 6

Add bread to rice mixture along with garlic, eggs, cheese, parsley, basil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and stir to combine well.

　　

Step 7

Sprinkle inside of eggplant shells with remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Firmly pack a scant 1/3-cup eggplant stuffing into each eggplant shell. (You may have some stuffing left over.)

　　

Fry and bake eggplants:

Step 8

Put oven rack in middle of oven and preheat oven to 375°F.

　　

Step 9

Heat 1 inch vegetable oil in a 10-inch cast-iron or other deep heavy skillet over moderate heat until thermometer reaches 320°F and add 2 eggplant halves, stuffing sides up. Fry, turning over once using 2 slotted spoons, until golden brown, 5 to 8 minutes total. Transfer, stuffing sides up, to paper towels to drain, then fry remaining eggplants, 2 halves at a time, in same manner, returning oil to 320°F between batches.

　　

Step 10

Spoon sauce into a 3-quart (about 13- by 9-inch) nonreactive baking dish. Add eggplants, stuffing sides up, and bake, covered with foil, until sauce is bubbling, about 25 minutes.

　　Cooks' notes:

　　•Stainless steel, glass, and enameled cast iron are nonreactive; avoid pure aluminum and uncoated iron, which can impart an unpleasant taste and color to recipes with acidic ingredients.

　　•Stuffed eggplants can be made 2 days ahead and cooled, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Reheat in a 350°F oven, covered with foil, thinning sauce with a little water if necessary.