Stir-fried vegetables are almost as common in Southeast Asia as they are in China, and even the spices are similar. But the addition of dried shrimp and the use of nam pla are dead giveaways that this dish is from Indochina. It’s usually made on the fiery side, so feel free to increase the chiles if you like. Information on fish sauces like nam pla is on page 500. Other vegetables you can prepare this way: Green beans, parboiled broccoli or cauliflower, or a mixture of onions and peppers. All will take a little longer than fast-cooking watercress.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　1 tablespoon dried shrimp (page 185), optional

　　2 small dried red chiles, or to taste

　　2 garlic cloves, peeled

　　2 shallots, roughly chopped

　　2 bunches of watercress, trimmed and roughly chopped

　　2 tablespoons corn, grapeseed, or other neutral oil, as needed

　　2 tablespoons yellow bean sauce (available at Chinese and Southeast Asian markets)

　　1 tablespoon sugar

　　2 tablespoons nam pla, or to taste

　　1/2 teaspoon black pepper, or to taste

　　Salt if necessary

　　About 1/2 cup chopped fresh basil leaves, preferably Thai

　　

Step 1

If you’re using them, soak the dried shrimp in hot water to cover until softened, just a few minutes. Combine them in a small food processor with the chiles, garlic, and shallots and process to a paste. Toss with the watercress.

　　

Step 2

Put the oil in a skillet or wok over high heat; a minute later, add the watercress and paste. Cook, stirring almost constantly, for about a minute, or until the watercress wilts. Stir in 2 tablespoons water, then the bean sauce, sugar, nam pla, and pepper; cook for 10 seconds, then turn off the heat.

　　

Step 3

Taste and add salt or other seasoning as necessary. Stir in the basil and serve.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.