Bitter melon is a cucurbit; so is cucumber, and they resemble one another. (But so is a cantaloupe, so the melon reference isn’t far off.) Its flavor, though, is akin to that of green peppers, which are much easier to find. Serve this over white rice. If you have access to bitter melons, by all means use them; cut them in half the long way, then scoop out the seeds and fluffy insides, which are like those found in overripe zucchini, before chopping and proceeding as directed. Fermented black beans are available at most Asian markets and many supermarkets (see page 207). The lamb will be easier to slice if you freeze it for 30 minutes or so.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　1/4 cup fermented black beans

　　1/4 cup Shaoxing wine, dry sherry, sake, or white wine

　　3 tablespoons neutral oil, like corn or grapeseed

　　3 or 4 green bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and sliced, or 2 or 3 bitter melons, prepared as described in the headnote

　　1 pound boneless lamb, from the leg or shoulder, cut into thin slices

　　1 tablespoon minced garlic

　　1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

　　1/3 cup chicken stock, preferably homemade (page 160), or water

　　2 tablespoons soy sauce

　　1/2 cup roughly chopped scallion

　　

Step 1

Soak the black beans in the wine. Put 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet or wok over high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the peppers and cook, stirring only occasionally, until they brown and soften, 5 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.

　　

Step 2

Add another tablespoon of the oil to the skillet and heat; add the lamb, a couple of pieces at a time. Do not crowd; you may need to cook the lamb in 2 batches. Brown well on each side, then transfer to the bowl with the peppers.

　　

Step 3

Add the remaining tablespoon of oil, along with the garlic and ginger; cook, stirring, for 30 seconds, then add the pepper-lamb mixture, along with the soaked beans and their liquid, the stock, and the soy sauce. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is somewhat reduced (if it dries out immediately, add a little more stock or water), just a couple of minutes. Stir in the scallion and serve.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.