Active Time

　　20 min

　　Total Time

　　40 min

　　The spirit of Japan comes through in this dish: It is lovely to behold and has a delicate, light quality, yet the extraordinary flavors will seize your attention with the culinary equivalent of surround sound.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 8 (first course) servings

　　

For dashi:

3 large dried Chinese black mushrooms

　　2 1/3 cups water

　　1 (4-inch) piece kombu (dried kelp)

　　2 tablespoons bonito flakes

　　

For custard:

6 large eggs

　　1/4 cup heavy cream

　　1 1/2 teaspoons Shaoxing wine

　　1 1/2 teaspoons dry Oloroso Sherry

　　1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce

　　1 teaspoon kosher salt

　　1/4 teaspoon sugar

　　1/2 teaspoon Asian sesame oil

　　

For crab topping:

18 flowering Chinese chives, tough bottoms discarded

　　1/2 pound jumbo lump crabmeat, picked over

　　1/2 teaspoon Asian sesame oil

　　1/4 teaspoon sugar

　　3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

　　1 1/2 teaspoons Shaoxing wine

　　1 tablespoon dry Oloroso Sherry

　　Pinch of white pepper

　　Equipment: 8 (4- to 5-ounce) bowls or ramekins

　　

Make dashi:

Step 1

Simmer mushrooms in water in a small saucepan 5 minutes, then let steep off heat 10 minutes. Add kombu and return just to a simmer. Turn off heat and add bonito flakes, then let steep 10 minutes. Strain stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl or glass measure, discarding solids. Cool dashi to room temperature.

　　

Make custard:

Step 2

Beat eggs and 1 1/2 cups cooled dashi in a medium bowl, then whisk in remaining custard ingredients.

　　

Step 3

Divide among bowls. Cover each tightly with foil and arrange in a steamer rack. Steam, covered, over simmering water until just barely set in center, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove pot from heat and let stand, covered, 2 to 3 minutes. (Custard will continue to set.)

　　

Prepare crab topping while custard steams:

Step 4

Blanch chives in a medium pot of boiling salted water 30 seconds, then transfer to an ice bath to stop cooking. Pat chives dry. Cut into 3/4-inch pieces and gently combine with crab and remaining ingredients.

　　

Step 5

Top warm custards with crab mixture.

　　Cooks' note:

　　Dashi can be made 1 day ahead and chilled.