Unless you live in Alaska or know a good fishmonger in the Pacific Northwest, it’s almost impossible to buy Dungeness crab that has not already been cooked. That’s not a problem; they can still be steamed, as they are here. This is a subtle preparation, but Dungeness is so wonderful that’s all it takes. (You can use lobster if you prefer.)

Ingredients

　　2 to 4 Dungeness crabs, depending on size

　　1/2 cup Shaoxing wine, sake, or white wine

　　10 slices fresh ginger, plus 1 teaspoon peeled and minced

　　1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons soy sauce

　　2 tablespoons rice, black, or white vinegar

　　1 teaspoon dark sesame oil

　　2 teaspoons sugar

　　Put water in the bottom of a steamer. Put the crabs on a plate and spread the wine, sliced ginger, and 1/4 cup soy sauce over them. Place in the steamer and cover; cook until the crabs are hot and cooked through, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the remaining ingredients to make a dipping sauce. Serve hot with the dipping sauce.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.