Plain vinaigrette is lovely over steamed vegetables (or poached or grilled fish for that matter), but gribiche surpasses it. Just the thought of this bistro classic makes my mouth water. Other vegetables you can prepare this way: any vegetable you can steam and sauce—potatoes, broccoli, and carrots, for example.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 or more servings

　　1 1/2 to 2 pounds asparagus, trimmed and peeled

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　1 cup Vinaigrette (page 600)

　　2 tablespoons chopped cornichons or gherkins

　　1 teaspoon minced lemon zest

　　1 hard-cooked egg (page 338), finely chopped

　　2 tablespoons minced fresh chives or chopped fresh parsley leaves

　　

Step 1

You can steam or simmer the asparagus; each method takes 5 to 10 minutes (steaming is a little faster because you don’t have to bring a large pot of water to a boil). To steam, stand them up in a pot with about an inch of salted water on the bottom, then cover and turn the heat to high; or just lay them in a steamer over boiling water. Cook just until the thick part of the stalks can be pierced with a knife. To simmer, plunge into boiling salted water and cook until the thick part of the stalks can be pierced with a knife.

　　

Step 2

While the asparagus is cooking, combine the remaining ingredients except the herb and blend with a fork.

　　

Step 3

Drain the asparagus and serve hot or at room temperature, with some of the sauce spooned over it. Garnish with the herb.

　　

White Asparagus with Aïoli

Step 4

White asparagus is produced by “blanching” the spears as they grow: dirt is mounded up around each stalk so it doesn’t develop chlorophyll—which is what turns it green. Steam or simmer as directed, giving it plenty of time to become tender. Serve warm, with Aïoli (page 603).

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.