This remains a luxurious dish, though it is quite simple. Traditionally, so many cracked (not ground) black peppercorns are pressed into the meat that they form a crispy crust. For some this is overwhelming. But if you slice the steak before serving, the surface area per bite is not as great. Or you could, of course, use much less pepper.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　2 tablespoons freshly cracked black pepper, more or less

　　4 filets mignons or sirloin (New York) strip steaks, each 6 to 8 ounces

　　1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

　　3 tablespoons butter

　　Salt to taste

　　2 tablespoons minced shallot

　　1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

　　1/4 cup heavy cream (preferred) or water

　　Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

　　

Step 1

Press the pepper into the steaks to form an even coating. Preheat the oven to 200°F. Put the oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large skillet and turn the heat to medium-high. When the butter melts, add the steaks and turn the heat to high. Sear on the first side for about 3 minutes, then turn and sprinkle with salt. Sear on the second side for 2 or 3 minutes; lower the heat and cook until just short of desired level of doneness, about 7 minutes total for medium-rare. Keep warm in the oven while you make the sauce.

　　

Step 2

Pour out any fat from the skillet, but leave brown bits in there. Over medium-high heat, add the remaining butter and shallot and cook until soft, stirring occasionally, about 3 minutes. Add the mustard and cream and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Spoon the sauce over the steaks, garnish, and serve.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.