I often come home from Chinatown with a squid and a bag of choy sum. The fishmonger will have done most of the dirty work for me, leaving me to give the body sac a final rinse before slicing. Squid is ideally suited to this quick, high-temperature cooking.

　　

Ingredients

enough for 2

　　Chinese greens – 2 large handfuls

　　large red chiles – 2

　　ginger – a thumb-sized piece

　　prepared squid bodies and tentacles – 14 ounces (400g)

　　nam pla (Thai fish sauce) – 2 tablespoons

　　brown sugar – 2 teaspoons

　　lime juice – 2 tablespoons

　　vegetable oil – 2 tablespoons

　　basil leaves – a large handful

　　

Step 1

Blanch the greens in boiling water for a minute or two. Drain and set aside, chopping the stems coarsely.

　　

Step 2

Halve the chiles, remove the seeds, and slice the flesh thinly. Peel the ginger and grate or shred it finely. Wash the squid, dry it thoroughly with paper towels, then cut the bodies down one side and open them out. Wipe them clean (sometimes they have bits of yuck attached). Cut into large pieces and score each one carefully with the point of a sharp knife. Mix the fish sauce, sugar, and lime juice together.

　　

Step 3

Warm the oil in a wok or frying pan, then add the chiles and ginger. When it sizzles and the ginger starts to color, add the squid bodies and tentacles. Fry for two minutes, until the edges of the squid start to color, then pour in the fish sauce mixture. Take care, as it will spit and pop.

　　

Step 4

Continue frying briefly, then add the lightly chopped greens. Toss in the basil leaves, let them wilt, then eat immediately, from two warm bowls.

　　Tender