Honeybees get most of the attention, but squash bees do the most work. These busy bees crawl out of their underground nests and get going a good half an hour before the honey team when the squash flowers are in full bloom. Both the male and female squash bees set to the field work gathering nectar from blossoms, but only the females do double duty collecting pollen. Bees transfer pollen from the male flowers to the female flowers. The first several flowers of a plant are male and will not produce any fruit. By midday the squash blossoms begin to close and the bees return home. Get to work early like these busy squash bees and pick your squash blossoms early in the day. Squash blossoms filled with herbed goat cheese and fried with a crisp batter are an annual summer event thanks to the hardworking squash bees.

　　

Ingredients

serves 8

　　

Tempura Batter

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

　　1/2 cup cornstarch

　　1/4 cup rice flour

　　1 tablespoon baking powder

　　1 tablespoon salt

　　1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

　　3 cups soda water

　　

Filling

1 (8-ounce) log mild goat cheese, softened

　　2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

　　2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

　　1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

　　Salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　16 squash blossoms

　　Vegetable oil, for frying

　　

Prepare the Tempura Batter

Step 1

Sift together the all-purpose flour, cornstarch, rice flour, baking powder, salt, and cayenne. Whisk in the soda water, a little at a time, until the right consistency is achieved: The batter should coat the back of a spoon, but some should run off the spoon. Let the batter rest in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.

　　

Make the Squash Filling

Step 2

Combine the goat cheese, chives, basil, and olive oil in a medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper and mix well. Scoop up 1 tablespoon of the filling and shape into a ball; repeat with the remaining mixture.

　　

Step 3

Make sure the squash blossoms are well cleaned: Inspect each flower for insects and any browned petals. Open each flower and insert 1 ball of the goat cheese filling. Gently press the filling into the base of the flower. Close the petals and pinch the top to seal. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

　　

Step 4

Heat a deep-fryer or a deep pot with 2 inches of oil to 375°F.

　　

Step 5

Hold a squash blossom by the stem and dip it into the tempura batter, making sure to coat it completely. Let any excess batter drip off. Place the blossom in the oil and fry until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes, turning often to brown evenly. Remove to a paper-towel-lined plate. Repeat with the remaining blossoms. Serve immediately.

　　Cooks' Note

　　Several blossoms can be fried at a time; just be sure not to overcrowd the oil so they can brown easily and the oil temperature does not drop too much.

　　A Southerly Course