Vegetables prepared alla Genovese are among my favorite Ligurian dishes, made with the freshest produce and brilliantly flavored. I particularly love this sauté of spinach with anchovies, raisins, and pine nuts (and I’ve read that spinach prepared in this manner was one of Michelangelo’s favorite dishes, too). Each of the components makes a distinct contribution: The anchovies lend complexity and saltiness. The raisins bring sweetness and counterbalance the anchovies. (I give you the amounts of each that I like, but find your own balance of flavors by increasing or decreasing either.) Finally, pine nuts add a mellow, pleasing textural contrast. You can apply this trio of tastes to other vegetables; escarole, broccoli, cauliflower, and Swiss chard will all be delicious in such a preparation. Spinaci alla Genovese is wonderful served family-style as a dinner vegetable, or as a colorful bed for grilled chicken breast or fish. Should you have any leftovers, layer the spinach between slices of crusty bread for an unusual but absolutely delicious sandwich.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　1/2 cup golden raisins (preferably plump and moist)

　　2 1/2 pounds tender spinach (or about 4 pounds untrimmed bunch spinach), stems removed and washed well

　　1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　3 plump garlic cloves, crushed and peeled

　　2 anchovy fillets, finely chopped (about 1 teaspoon)

　　1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

　　1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

　　1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted

　　

RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT

A heavy-bottomed sauté pan or high-sided skillet, 12-inch diameter or larger, with a cover

　　

Step 1

If the raisins are dry, soak them in a small bowl in hot water to cover until plump and softened, about 10 minutes. Wash and drain the spinach just before you cook it, so there’s still some water on the leaves.

　　

Step 2

Pour the olive oil into the pan, set it over medium-high heat, and toss in the crushed garlic cloves. Cook and stir the garlic until it begins to sizzle, then drop in the chopped anchovies and cook, stirring them in the oil for a minute or two, until they melt.

　　

Step 3

Fill the pan with spinach, heaping it in by handfuls and letting it wilt down a bit before adding more. Once all the spinach is in the pan, scatter the raisins on top (and pour in any remaining soaking water, if you plumped them); sprinkle over them the salt and grated nutmeg. Toss the spinach leaves over and over with tongs, distributing the raisins and seasonings, then cover the pan and cook for a couple of minutes, until all the spinach has wilted and released its liquid.

　　

Step 4

Remove the cover, and cook over high heat, stirring, tossing the spinach, and evaporating the water. When the bottom of the pan is dry, toss in the pine nuts and cook for a few moments, then remove the skillet from the heat and serve the spinach right away.

　　Lidia Cooks from the Heart of Italy by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. Copyright © 2009 Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved.Lidia Mattichio Bastianich is the author of four previous books, three of them accompanied by nationally syndicated public television series. She is the owner of the New York City restaurant Felidia (among others), and she lectures on and demonstrates Italian cooking throughout the country. She lives on Long Island, New York.Tanya Bastianich Manuali, Lidia’s daughter, received her Ph.D. in Renaissance history from Oxford University. Since 1996 she has led food/wine/art tours. She lives with her husband and children on Long Island.