Like many recipes of humble country origins, there is no carved-in-stone recipe for minestrone, the iconic Italian vegetable soup. Mamas from both sides of the Atlantic have used fresh seasonal vegetables with a bit of hambone or cheese rind to prepare soulful, satisfying soups. We’ve long known that this combination tastes good. Now we have a name for why it does: umami. The Japanese term umami is now familiar to culinary professionals, chefs, and informed foodies, yet Asian cooks have appreciated the taste for centuries. It is the fifth taste after sour, salty, bitter, and sweet. Scientifically, umami is the distinctive flavor of amino acids, which are the building blocks of protein. Think about classic Caesar salad dressing, a combination of egg protein and salted anchovies. Or old-fashioned greens simmered with ham. Or this soup, in which the rind of the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese complements the vegetables in the tomato broth.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4 to 6

　　1 tablespoon olive oil

　　2 onions, preferably Vidalia, chopped

　　1 carrot, chopped

　　1 stalk celery, chopped

　　2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped

　　6 cups water, plus more if needed

　　1/4 medium head green cabbage, chopped

　　Rind from a piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

　　Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　1 (14 1/2-ounce) can crushed tomatoes

　　1/4 pound green beans, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces

　　1/4 pound fresh okra, stems trimmed, halved lengthwise

　　1 yellow squash, chopped

　　1 zucchini, chopped

　　2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

　　2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

　　1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

　　1/2 cup elbow macaroni

　　Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

　　Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for garnish

　　

Step 1

In a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions, carrot, and celery and cook until the onions are golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Add 4 cups of the water, the cabbage, and the cheese rind. Season the mixture with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat, and then decrease the heat to low. Simmer until the mixture is flavorful and well combined, about 30 minutes.

　　

Step 2

Add the tomatoes, green beans, okra, yellow squash, zucchini, parsley, basil, and red pepper flakes. Add more of the remaining water to cover by about 1 inch. Continue to simmer slowly over very low heat until the vegetables are just tender, an additional 20 minutes. Add the pasta, and more water, if needed. Simmer until the pasta is tender, an additional 10 to 15 minutes. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.

　　

Step 3

To serve, ladle the soup into warmed bowls. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle with grated cheese.

　　

parmigiano-reggiano

Step 4

Parmigiano-Reggiano is a hard, dry cheese made from cow’s milk. The rind is golden tan and the interior is creamy yellow. True Parmigiano-Reggiano from Italy is aged eighteen to thirty-six months and is sharp and rich in flavor with a salty kick. While other countries make Parmesan cheese, real Italian Parmigiano- Reggiano is more expensive and is well worth every dime. Look for “Parmigiano-Reggiano” stenciled on the rind to authenticate the origin.

　　From Bon Appétit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories From Three Generations of Southern Cooking, © 2008 by Virginia Willis. Reprinted by permission of Ten Speed Press. Buy the full book from Amazon or Abe Books.