Soft-shell crabs are one of the great luxuries of spring. They may be expensive if you’re feeding them to a crowd. But just for one person, why not treat yourself ? If the soft-shell crabs are good-sized, I’ll eat only two, but I prefer the small ones and can devour three easily along with a spring vegetable. I usually buy them from a fishmonger at the end of the day. That way, he can do the killing and the cleaning, because they will be popped into the pan as soon as I get home.

Ingredients

　　About 1/3 cup milk

　　1/2 cup flour

　　1/3 cup panko and 1/3 cup breadcrumbs, or all breadcrumbs

　　Salt and freshly ground pepper

　　A pinch of ancho chili powder (optional)

　　2 tablespoons light olive oil

　　1/2 lemon

　　1 tablespoon or more butter

　　A small handful of chopped fresh parsley

　　Dip the soft-shell crabs in the milk. Toss together on a piece of wax paper the flour and the panko and breadcrumbs, and season with salt, pepper,and ancho chili powder, if using. Heat the oil in a heavy skillet that will accommodate the crabs. When it’s sizzling, shake off the excess milk and dip the crabs in the crumb mixture. Slip them into the pan, and sauté on one side for 2–3 minutes, until crusty and golden brown, then turn and brown the other side—about 5 minutes in all. Remove the crabs to a warm plate, and squeeze lemon juice over them. Quickly wipe out the hot pan, and over medium heat swirl at least a tablespoon of butter—more, if you like—around in it, until the butter turns brown. Pour the browned butter over the crabs, and sprinkle parsley on top. Eat immediately.Second round? None on this. I always lick the plate clean.

　　The Pleasures of Cooking for One by Judith Jones. Copyright © 2009 by Judith Jones. Published by Knopf. All Rights Reserved.Judith Jones is senior editor and vice president at Alfred A. Knopf. She is the author of The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food and the coauthor with Evan Jones (her late husband) of three books: The Book of Bread; Knead It, Punch It, Bake It!; and The Book of New New England Cookery. She also collaborated with Angus Cameron on The L. L. Bean Game and Fish Cookbook, and has contributed to Vogue, Saveur, and Gourmet magazines. In 2006, she was awarded the James Beard Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award. She lives in New York City and Vermont.