Brussels sprouts are a love/hate vegetable. Let this recipe surprise you—even the dubious will fall in love with sprouts. But it’s the experience of tasting the vegetable in an unexpected form—all the leaves separated, tossed in the skillet until tender and sweet—that really makes the difference. They are wonderful as is, but the Lemon Sauce that follows provides a tangy counterpoint to the delicately caramelized green-gold leaves.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4 to 6

　　1 1/2 pounds fresh, firm Brussels sprouts

　　3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　4 plump garlic cloves, peeled and sliced (about 3 tablespoons)

　　1/4 teaspoon dried peperoncino (hot red pepper flakes)

　　1/4 teaspoon salt

　　

For Serving (Optional)

1/2 cup Lemon Sauce (recipe follows)

　　

Recommended Equipment

A 12-inch skillet or sauté pan with a tight-fitting cover

　　

Lemon Sauce

2 lemons

　　4 or 5 fat garlic cloves, peeled 2 medium onions, peeled and cut in wedges or big chunks (about 3 cups)

　　1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

　　1/4 teaspoon dried peperoncino (hot red pepper flakes)

　　2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　1 1/2 cups water

　　(makes 1 1/2 cup sauce, enough for 2 or 3 vegetables dishes)

　　

Undoing the Brussels Sprouts

Step 1

Rinse and drain the sprouts.

　　

Step 2

Working over a big bowl with a sharp paring knife, cut off (and discard) 1/4 inch or so of the base of each sprout, freeing the outer leaves. Now stick the point of the knife into what’s left of the base and slice out the tiny core, in one cone-shaped piece—just as you would cut out the bigger core of a cabbage or cauliflower. This loosens the inner leaves. Discard the small core.

　　

Step 3

Begin peeling off the outermost leaves, discarding only wilted or blemished leaves; drop all the fresh dark-green leaves, even thick ones, into the bowl. Keep peeling off the leaves until you reach the tiny ones that can’t be pulled apart. Cut this bundle in slivers and drop them into the bowl. When all are done you will have a large fluffy pile of leaves.

　　

Skillet-Cook the Brussels Sprouts

Step 4

Put the oil and the garlic in the skillet and set over medium heat. Let the garlic cook and caramelize lightly for 4 minutes or so, shaking the pan now and then.

　　

Step 5

Dump in the sprout leaves, shake the pan to spread them out, then sprinkle the peperoncino and salt all over.

　　

Step 6

Cover the skillet and let the leaves cook and wilt for 4 to 5 minutes, giving the pan an occasional shake, then uncover and turn them well with a big spoon or tongs. The leaves should be sizzling but not browning—lower the heat if necessary. Cover again.

　　

Step 7

Cook another 4 to 5 minutes, until the leaves are soft, greatly reduced in volume, but still green and glistening. Serve the Brussels sprouts hot right from the skillet or turn them onto a warm platter.

　　

Step 8

To serve with lemon or another sauce, spread 1/2 cup of warm sauce in the bottom of a platter and pile the Brussels sprouts on top. Scoop up sauce with each serving-spoonful of leaves.

　　

Lemon Sauce

Step 9

Rinse and dry the lemons. With a sharp vegetable peeler or paring knife, shave off the outer yellow zest in strips, taking none of the bitter white pith, until you have about 1/4 cup of strips, packed together. Juice some or all of the lemons, straining to remove seeds and pulp, to get about 1/3 cup of lemon juice.

　　

Step 10

Put the juice, strips of peel, garlic, onion, and salt in a 2-quart saucepan; pour in the water and 1 tablespoon of the oil. Bring to a boil, cover, and cook for about 20 minutes at a gentle boil. Remove the cover and cook rapidly for 20 or 30 minutes, or until the overall volume has reduced by half and the onion pieces are barely covered in liquid.

　　

Step 11

Purée the warm sauce in a blender or food processor. With the machine running, pour the remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a thin stream to incorporate it into the sauce.

　　

Step 12

Taste the sauce and blend in salt if needed; reheat if necessary before serving. Store in the refrigerator.

　　From Lidia's Family table by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Copyright (c) 2004 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Published by Knopf.Lidia Bastianich hosts the hugely popular PBS show, "Lidia's Italian-American kitchen" and owns restaurants in New York City, Kansas City, and Pittsburgh. Also the author of Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, she lives in Douglaston, New York. Jay Jacob's journalism has appeared in many national magazines.From the Trade Paperback edition.